Vietnam 2023 – Trip Report 18

Friday 15 September – Hanoi

It’s a slow start, as it was always likely to be.  You know, someone’s jetlag and all.

8.00am comes and goes, but I don’t let 8.30am arrive without being vertical.

Enough is enough.

Get sorted and head downstairs.  And yes, it is down the stairs.

They’re not difficult stairs.  It really doesn’t take that long.  It’s better for you.  It can help to annoy Lisa.  And depending on where the lift is, it’s often quicker.

Oh, and then there’s the opportunity to see more, and maybe even learn something.

And today we do, as we walk past the open door of one of the rooms below us.

The housekeepers are doing their thing, with one of them folding up towels on the bed, in the shape of flowers, swans, or whatever.

It’s always nice when I enter a hotel room and see my towel looking like something other than a towel, and being no origami expert, I’ve always been intrigued by how they do it.

I stop and peer in, marvelling at her folding skills, and when she sees me showing an interest, she invites us in to watch.

She ‘folds’ a flower quicker than I could roll the towel up into a ball, and then shows us the slower step by step, more educational, version.

For someone who has trouble remembering if I’m supposed to fold a bath towel in half crossways, or lengthways, this intricate folding fascinates me.

A much appreciated cảm ơn is given for our impromptu lesson, and we continue our way down the stairs, having learnt a new skill.

But not really, because ‘learnt’ implies that I could now make towel flowers all on my own, which could not be further from the truth.

Down to breakfast, I disappoint with the usual fruit, while Lisa gives them some hope by ordering a fried egg, which she uses to make a bánh mì ốp la, along with a cà phê sữa đá each.

Breakfast done, it’s back up to the room to sort clothes that should look and smell better than they do, and then out to the laundry place that has become ‘our’ laundry place, over the last few years.

Up to Hang Bong, then right, then left, and down to, sort of, behind St Joseph’s by 10.00am.

2.25 kg, 60 000 Dong, ready by 3.00pm.  Really could not be any easier.

Back down past the Emerald, and then down in the direction of the lake, stopping to take photos of buildings, as well as try and understand Vietnamese street numbers, all for someone who remembers some place from a visit years ago, and then WhatsApping them.

And all that for the very same person who just happened to ‘donate’ that suitcase, which I am now stuck with, for the next two weeks.

I just knew Lisa and the girl, staying with Jo for a night, was going to cost me at some point…..

Just didn’t realise I’d be paying so soon!

Down to Underwear Lane; good news, its public toilet once again open; and then up to Ma May Street and 1984 Tattoo Studio.

Upstairs, we’re immediately made to feel comfortable on the couch, and a few seconds later, Hip walks in.

She’s rapt to see Lisa again, as well as her arm, 12 months later, and we sit and chat, with a little help from one of the other girls, who plays translator when required.

Apart from a small amount of talk about tattoos, the topic of conversation is predominately Vietnam related, and of course with that being the case, well, it’s hard to keep me quiet.

To the point that our translator girl exclaims, “You love Vietnam more than us!”

“Yep, I do love Vietnam!  Just look at my arm!”, I respond, pointing to the collection of ink that now adorns it.

They laugh, but it gets me reflecting, and not for the first time, on what we’ve done, and what’s happened, to actually find ourselves here.

A sixth trip, after that very first one in 2014, which was always going to be a one off.  Two tattoos last year, having never been tattooed before, followed up with a third one two weeks ago.

Now sitting back in the tattoo studio, essentially just catching up, and feeling like we have a real relationship with not just Hip, but everyone that’s here.

It’s all a bit surreal, but a very happy surreal, and while I’m struggling to stop the reminiscing, I’m also now struggling to stop thinking about a fourth tattoo.

Yep, a slippery slope, indeed…..

We chat for a good 30 minutes, which also blows me away, before we head off to leave them to do what they do, with the promise that we’ll see them again in roughly a year.

Back outside, down to Underwear Lane, and then around the corner to see if Cammy is there.

She is, and because it’s been a year for Lisa and Cammy, they spend some time catching up on all things girly and weddings, which causes my eyes to glaze over, and return to thinking about tattoo designs.

Lisa mentions getting a sim card, and Cammy being Cammy, very generously sorts it all out for her.

She is seriously a lovely girl, and she looks after us so well to the point that I feel a little guilty.

Long awaited catch up had, we head off comfortable in the knowledge that the final, but not really final, goodbye is well off down the track.

Well, it feels a long way off, but in reality, will, unfortunately, feel like it has arrived very quickly when the time comes.

With too much time between cà phê sữa đá’s, and because we haven’t spent enough time just sitting around, we head up to Affetto’s to deal with both those issues.

As has become the norm, they are very pleased to see us, and we’re quickly seated out on the footpath of what has become ‘our’ café.

Which gets me reminiscing again, thinking about how long it’s been our café, and the realisation hits that I’m pretty sure the first time we came here, albeit when they were over the road a few doors down, was the second trip, way back in 2016.

Extraordinary, and just a little bit scary.

We sit, savour, and watch the world go by, while also noticing a box of Tin Tin prints outside the souvenir shop next door.

Tin Tin prints, even though I know nothing about the character, catch my attention every time I see them, and it’s all because, for some reason, I bought one at the night market in Hoi An, on the first trip.

I don’t know why I bought it, with it perhaps just being a combination of a moment of weakness in a touristy night market, liking the yellow colour of it, and finding something that wasn’t too heavy, and could easily be transported home.

Anyway, it sat on my wall in the bar for a few years, before then being added to, when three more were purchased on the 2017 trip.

Making frames for them after we got home, and then moving some other photos and memorabilia around, resulted in the discovery of some great wall space to display them.  The only ‘problem’ being, however, was that I really needed a fifth to properly fill the space.

A fifth frame was then made in anticipation of that future purchase, and then left empty for two years, before returning from the fourth trip in 2019, with a white Tin Tin.

White wasn’t my first choice, and probably wasn’t even in my top five, but I just couldn’t find a green one, which in my eyes, was going to go best with the yellow, red, blue and purple ones I had.

So yeah, the white adorns the wall with the other much brighter and more exciting colours, and every time I’ve looked at it over the years, I can’t help but think I wished it were green.

While I’ve pretty much accepted defeat on a green, I still have the occasional look whenever I see a selection here in Vietnam.

And now, right next to me, is another range.

I can’t help myself, so I get up to have a look.

And yep!, there’s the elusive green one!

I’m stunned, and I think I just have to buy it.  But I can’t.

I don’t have room for another one, and I don’t think I can banish the white one to a cupboard somewhere, never to be seen again.

It’s such a dilemma, but I think I just need to accept what’s happened has happened, and somehow, for some reason, understand that having a white one is just the way it is supposed to be.

Well, that’s how I’m going to justify it….

I go back to my cà phê sữa đá, and Lisa, and try and forget my ‘discovery’, while also trying to be all proud of myself because I’ve just saved 130 000 Dong by not giving in.

Coffee done, overthinking brain still going, we head back to the Emerald around 1.00pm for a rest and recovery session, as well as to cool down.

Somewhat recovered, we head back out around 2.00pm to do something about lunch.  Up to Bánh My Mama’s, passing the phở place on the corner with the twenty or so people queued up out the front; I just don’t get that; and the usual pork skewer bánh mì is ordered.

The young girl once again seems very pleased to see us, and she’s quite impressed when I attempt the Vietnamese pronunciation from her menu.

Bánh mì’s (2 x 20 000 Dong) delivered, we make our way back down Hang Manh, dropping into the Emerald to retrieve a small painting Lisa has done.  It’s for Cammy, and it’s in commemoration of her recent wedding, with the only thing left to do, is to find a frame for it.

Down the end of the street, and then around the corner to our nước mía đá guy, who while he doesn’t give away too much in the way of pleasantries, always gives us an acknowledging smile when we call past.

Sugarcane crushed of its sweet nectar, ice added, and another 20 000 Dong handed over, bringing lunch to a total of 60 000 Dong, which at the current rate, is around $4 Australian dollars.

Couldn’t do that at home, but it is still twice as much as I was payng last week, though….

Frame hunting can wait, so we make our way down to the lake to do a lap.  There’s a few around, but it’s all rather pleasant, and we do the lap in the usual anti-clockwise direction, which the vast majority seem to do as well.

A quick stop to pat the tiny disabled kitten; this trip just seems to be all about cats; and then up to the top of the lake.

While the first part of the walk had been pretty quiet and peaceful, the same can’t be said for up here.

A sea of tourist groups, being herded onto those electric tour bus things, by tour guides carrying their flag poles.

It’s madness, and like cyclo tours, I really don’t understand the appeal, or the desire, to do such a thing.

Although it is kind of funny to watch.

Lap done, entertainment had, we make our way back in the general direction of the Emerald to try and deal with the picture frame requirement.

Having seen some frames on our travels around the Old Quarter, we head over to Hang Quat street to try our luck.

No bull, just a dog in a china shop making use of the cool floor tiles.

The first challenge is to find a suitable style frame, which seeing some of the rather ornate and garish offerings, is a problem.

The second challenge is explaining the desire for a mat board, which proves to be difficult, with the language barrier, even with the help of Google Translate, probably being the biggest challenge of all.

First attempt is a failure, so we move on up the street.

Second attempt follows the same path as attempt one, and we’re quickly back out on the street still as far away from achieving our goal as when we first started.

It’s decided the best course of action is to abort the whole frame purchasing exercise for the day, with the view to doing a little more research, with that likely to include a chat with Jenny or Kate, back at the hotel.

With it getting close to 3.30pm, we head off to see if we can actually achieve something today, and that is to be reunited with our, now hopefully, clean clothes.

Up to Hang Bong, and then left into Phu Doan street, excusing ourselves as we walk through several motorbike mechanic’s workshops, otherwise known as the footpath.

Laundry retrieved, and we head back to the Emerald for a short rest.  I receive a message from Quan, confirming that our ‘tour’ is on tomorrow night.

It’s a motorbike food tour, which is in the process of being set up by both Quan and Khoi, of Water Buffalo Tours, and is being loosely based on the XO Foodie Tour in Saigon.

Tomorrow night’s ‘tour’ is a bit of a practice run, and both Quan and Khoi are keen to get our opinion on what they’ve come up with.

A plan is also put into place to meet up again next Tuesday, before we leave Hanoi, which of course will include a few beers, and while that is good, it does make me stop and think about how quickly our days are disappearing.

A bit after 4.00pm, and rather than dwelling on days not yet here, I leave Lisa to do her thing, while I head off to do mine.

Up Stainless Steel Street, and then up Bat Dan, and I’m quickly back in my happy place.

Pyjama guy rocks up just after me, but puts his first beer on hold, by heading across to the lottery ticket place over the road.

He has me intrigued every time I see him, and it’s not just because of his choice in clothes.

His manner last year really stood out, but not in a good way, but this year is different, with him coming across as far more friendly and likeable.

It’s good to see, but at the same time, it’s just proof that I spend far too much time looking and thinking about things that I probably don’t need to be.

A beer, more watching, more overthinking; the three guys in front of me.

One smoking a cigarette, one a cigar looking thing, the third a pipe.

Is it an age related thing?  Or is it a kind of heirachy thing?  Do the pipe and ciagar guys look down their noses at the cigarette guy?

A shoe cleaner / polisher guy comes past.  His attempts – and they are genuine, as he’s not one of those ‘shoe repairer’ guys who approach you just a few blocks away, offering to fix your unbroken thongs for an inflated price, fall on deaf ears, and he moves on.

How do I know he’s a genuine shoe guy?

Because he never once approached, nor looked, at me.

Which is a little sad, as I may well have been tempted to hand over my thongs, which are looking a little grubby from the things you walk through in Hanoi.

A second ‘salesman’ arrives, but this one is offering mobile phone screen replacement, which is something I’ve not noticed before on previous trips.

He too is unsuccessful, and he heads across the street to where shoe cleaner guy, who has just happened to pick up two customers, is busily plying his trade while squatting at the corner.

Phone screen guy sits with him while he does his thing, which suggests to me that they perhaps work in combination, despite me not really seeing the connection between getting your phone repaired while getting your shoes cleaned.

Again, I really need to try and think less…..

Shoe guy on the left, phone screen guy on the right.

Another beer, another ‘salesman’, with this one being far better linked to phone screen guy, with the product offered, being screen protectors.

Yep, a much better fit.

But like screen guy, protector guy is out of luck, and he too moves on.

It eventually becomes time for me to do the same, and I head off back to the Emerald a bit before 6.00pm.

Down Bat Dan, stopping briefly to watch the Indian couple having photos done with one of the female fruit sellers, but more specifically, the actual fruit seller’s pole and baskets.

The wife is happy, the husband is enjoying playing photographer, and the fruit seller will be happy shortly, when she manages to extract more money for her fruit than it’s worth, and / or payment for her services of offering the photo opportunity.

Of course, the Indian couple, at least at this very point in time, are blissfully unaware of how much they are about to overpay.

Into Stainless Steel Street, a quick stop at our very friendly convenience store, and because I’m buying for two, it’s six beers, one Coke, and a packet of chips (102 000 Dong).

Back to the hotel, quick shower, the now clean clothes put away, and then it’s back out to find dinner.

Having told Lisa about my Stainless Steel Street dinner place from the other night, that’s the plan.

Down the end of Hang Manh, around the corner, and past the never give up yellow chair touts, taking much joy in knocking them back whenever they try their luck.

Bit further up on the left,  we find our place, and despite there not being a lot of room, they still manage to find us a table.

Same as 48 hours ago, because that is what they do, and we soon have a plate of stir fried beef with noodles and vegetables, along with a bowl of what I still think is pickled daikon, and of course, some of those really cold ‘ba, ba, ba’ (333) beers.

And like the other night, it’s good, with the location and everything that comes with that, just adding to the whole thing.

Dinner had, bill paid (2 x 60 000 Dong, 3 x 20 000 Dong for beer); I can’t believe how much I’m spending now; and then it’s off up to Bat Dan for our usual nightly routine.

They’re busy when we arrive, but they find us a couple of chairs and a table by the edge of the road, which, as long as it’s not raining, I would take every time over somewhere inside.

Beer quickly arrives, and the result of a rather awkwardly taken selfie is sent to the person responsible for me now having to drag a large suitcase around Vietnam, in an attempt to make her jealous of where we are currently sitting.

It works, with the response one minute later really not suitable for quoting in a family friendly environment.

But, I still have the suitcase, so I’m not sure I’ve won the battle….

Not the awkward selfie, but one taken by one of the bar guys, who kindly offered to help out when he saw me struggling.

The cat from the other night turns up, and completely ignoring me, heads straight over to Lisa, jumping up onto her lap.

I’m a little hurt, but not overly surprised, seeing as it is a cat, but it’s not long before it realises the error of its way, and walks across the table to reacquaint itself with me, by sitting on my lap.

Lisa is rather hurt, while I find it rather amusing, but there is a certain amount of concern with the level of interest these non-dog animals are showing in me.

Matty, from Sydney, then rocks up, and an extra seat is quickly found.

His first full day in Hanoi, and Vietnam, has gone well, and because he is just so easy to talk to, the next hour or two just flies by, as we chat about anything and everything, but with a significant chunk being, of course, Vietnam related.

The catching up is a lot of fun, but that fun is slightly tempered when a guy comes past, selling various small knick knacks, while pushing his disabled son.

While that’s hard anywhere in the world, it’s a reminder of how much harder it is here in a place like Vietnam, when compared to a country like Australia, with its level of social security available.

All too soon it’s time to make a move, and we head off back down Bat Dan, and then onto Stainless Steel Street, a bit before 10.30pm.

A quick stop to take a photo of a small excavator in someone’s home or shop, just because it all looks so wrong, especially when you notice the glass doors and windows it’s just been driven through, which results in enthusiatic ‘hellos’ from the workers involved.

Back to the Emerald, and Jenny, who we’ve not seen all day, and who Lisa has not seen at all since she arrived, is at the desk.

A big hug, and then some catching up, including a discussion on the complete failure that was the Number 86 bus to the airport yesterday.

At least now it appears we both may have learnt something about the bus, but only some of it, as I’m still yet to find the actual route the bus takes, when heading back to the airport.

Mental note is taken to eventually figure that out.

Upstairs for the usual, and to finish our ‘nothing much’ day, but again, I’m more than happy with these types of days.

And anyway, there was stuff achieved, and it will hopefully help us achieve more tomorrow, when we set out to solve today’s failed attempt at a picture frame.

Doesn’t sound much, as if we were home, we’d just go to a cheap department store type place.  But where’s the fun or challenge in that?

Yep, could be much more interesting trying to do it here, as it was back in 2019 in Saigon, when that particular picture frame hunting resulted in a rather long, and very hot, walk.

But it was also about the experience, and what we saw, proving again that it is often more about the journey, than the destination.

Cheers,

Scott