Vietnam 2024 – Trip Report 12

Monday 23 September – Tuesday 24 September – Hanoi – Can Tho (Green Village)

Monday 23 September

Up just before 9.00am, and downstairs for the easy breakfast of fruit.

A chat with Jenny, and yes, the lunch is on and arranged for 12.30pm.

We discuss booking the car that will be required in the morning, and Jenny seems quite amused by the whole thing.

Probably because she’s not the one having to get up for it, nor the one who will be doing the driving.

It’s funny, Thy at Green Village, which is where we’re next heading, also thought it was funny, after I messaged her the other day.

Strangely, I don’t find it overly amusing.

Ignoring my usual allowance of 45 minutes to the airport, I decide, or at least am of the belief, that traffic will highly unlikely be an issue at ‘stupid o’clock’, and work on a 30 minute trip.

Car booked for 3.45am, which while I think it’s still far earlier than it needs to be, I just can’t bring myself to cut it finer.

Outside by 10.00am with a bag of clothes in need of a wash, and up to our laundry.

2.9 kilos, done and ready by 3.00pm; 70 000 Dong.  Too easy!

Through the lanes to St. Joseph’s, and then down to Affetto for a couple of cà phê sữa đá’s (50 000 Dong).

The world watched, and the coffees savoured, but clouded in all that sense of inevitability.

It’s lucky we’re not actually going home tomorrow.

Bill fixed up, and Google Translate is used to let our girl know we’re leaving tomorrow.

She gives a smile, but it’s one with a slightly sad look.

We head off – should have asked her name! – and make our way to the Northern end of the lake, and then up to the really busy road.

Rack my brain on what sort of house number / numbered sign I could get from one of the plentiful sign sellers up this way, but just can’t come up with a good idea.

We reach Long Bien station, and like yesterday, make use of the 3000 Dong toilet, before hurrying off, as we hear a tour group make their way up the ramp.

Onto the bridge, and past the market area below.  So many trucks, so much stuff loaded and unloaded.

To the river area and Banana Island, and looking down on it, it’s hard to see.

The resulting flood from Typhoon Yagi has left an incredible mess, with rubbish strewn everywhere.  It’s in the fields, and caught up in trees, which gives a bit of an idea of just how high the water rose.

A section of banana palms lay flattened in the mud, and there’s plenty of that around, with kid’s playgrounds caked in the stuff.

Reaching the stairs and ramp, we head down so we can get to the other side.

The little ‘café’ that’s there, is still kind of there, but greatly impacted by what happened two weeks ago.

They’ll get it sorted, as they always do, but it’s going to take time, and I really feel for them.

Back up onto the bridge, and we begin making our way back, still shocked at the amount of rubbish down below.

We reach what I’ve always thought of as the ‘shanty town’, behind Long Bien market, and while it’s always been pretty ‘rustic’, the flood has had a marked impact on it. 

It was always a little difficult to look at, but it’s now far worse, to the point of just incredible sadness as to how some people have to live.

The photo doesn’t really capture how bad it actually is.

Almost back to the busy road, and the rumbling coming from behind us, signals an approaching train.

Who needs a café?

Down to and over the busy road, and we skirt the Old Quarter on the other side of train line, before heading back under it.

Past the thịt chó restaurants; was a bad night for a number of, now cooked and now very shiny, dogs; and I stumble across the hạt dẻ cart, that I see being wheeled down Bat Dan street.

It’s nice when a puzzle piece is found that I wasn’t even looking for.

I get a message from Jenny, telling us lunch is almost ready, which proves the timing of our walk has been excellent.

Back to the Emerald, and not at all unexpectedly, there is just so much food.

I have a sandwich at home for lunch, but this is like a banquet.

Hot pot with beef, chicken, vegetables, tofu, mushrooms, and plenty of it.

They never cease to amaze me, with how much they eat, but also how fit looking they remain.

David, the Australian guy we met last year who was living in Hanoi long term while learning Vietnamese, then arrives, and it’s great to catch up again.

He’s still having lessons; is still finding it incredibly difficult, but has made progress.

I’m very pleased for him, but at the same time, it pretty much confirms to me my belief of how hard it actually is to learn.

Lots of chatting, a beer is offered that would be impossible to refuse, and a bit of banter about how many beer cans the housekeeper removed from our room yesterday.

I’d like to blame Lisa, and perhaps also the housekeeper, believing she may have missed the previous guest’s empties, but I can’t, so I just ask her not to count anymore, when she collects them.

She laughs.

It’s a great couple of hours, and we’re so appreciative of their generosity and kindness, and I can’t help but feel how incredibly lucky we are to experience stuff like this.

Back outside around 2.30pm, with two chores on the list.  I need a note book, and Lisa, for some reason, needs a nail file.

The rough plan is, not surprisingly, to find Stationery Street, which we’ve come across heaps of times in our travels.

My problem, however, is I can’t remember its name, and I can’t remember where it is.

Having an idea, or believing I do, we head off in the very general direction of Dong Xuan market.  Finding pretty much every other product, we eventually stumble upon school and office type things, and are able to purchase a single note book from a packet of five, from the very helpful lady, for just 10 000 Dong.

I’m rapt, but I neglect to take note of the street we were in, so I will still be none the wiser next time.

The nail file remains elusive, until we come across a beauty type store in Hang Trong street.  The desired one is found, and 30 000 Dong handed over.

Both happy with our purchases, but more happy that our shopping expedition is over; and that it only cost me the Australian equivalent of $2.50; we make our way down to nearby Affetto, seeing as it’s so close.

A pineapple juice each (35 000 Dong each), and the opportunity to once again say goodbye to our girl; it’s win – win.

Drink done, we make our way down to the VIB ATM, selecting ‘other’, to then receive six million fee free.

The other day it was a manhole inspection, today it’s road cutting. It’s okay, the guy on the left is his assistant / spotter. And they also have a witches hat.

Up past St. Joseph’s, and around to collect our laundry, and then back to the Emerald just before 4.00pm.

Hotel bill fixed up, because we ain’t doing that in the morning, and with all the chores now done, we’re just left with the dreaded part of saying goodbye to Jenny and Kate.

They are both working tomorrow, but both seem reluctant, for some reason, to get here a little earlier, like at 3.30am, to say goodbye.

And I thought they were friends……

The very difficult goodbye, made clear that it was very much a ‘see you later’, done, I leave Lisa and make my way up for my final afternoon at Bat Dan.

Into Stainless Steel Street, eventually, seeing as some idiot in a car is trying to complete a manoeuvre that then results in everyone else now not going anywhere.

Nice to be oblivious…..

Finally through, walk completed, back in my spot.

Viet Willie turns up just after I do, acknowledging smile and hello is received, and then I get the same from the woman, when she arrives a few minutes later.

Sit and watch, but taking it all in that little more, while really not wanting it to end.

The rubbish and recycling ladies, pyjama guy, who seems really happy today, and then a woman on a bike going past, wearing not one, but two facemasks.

One in the traditional way, over her mouth and nose, the other covering her forehead, leaving just enough room for her eyes.

It’s an interesting look, and one that I’ve not seen before.

Then there’s the tourists.  The girl over the road, talking on the phone, but visibly upset with tears running down her cheeks.

I kind of want to see if she’s okay, but don’t really want to get involved, and anyway, it might all come across as weird.

The three or four tourists over on the corner, taking photos of each other as they swing from the vines hanging down from the big tree, that I spend hours looking at.

I kind of want to go over to talk to them, too, but that won’t go down well.

Hạt dẻ cart guy then walks past; I just sit and smugly smile, now knowing where his late afternoon journey began.

Another couple of beers, and then it happens!

The guy who carts the ridiculous amounts of polystyrene on his bicycle, parks it over the road.

I can’t get my phone quick enough!

Finally!

Got it!

I look across to my left, and my happiness at achieving my almost lifelong ambition, turns to shock.

Willie and my woman have made their way across to their bikes.

I hesitate, as my mind races, but having kind of been here before, I just can’t allow this to happen.

I jump up and run across the road, but I’m too late for Willie, as he rides off.

My woman is in the process of putting her helmet on, and is a little surprised when she sees me standing next to her.

Even though she has some English, I use Google Translate as well, to let her know that we leave tomorrow.

She reads it, removes her helmet and mask, gives me a bit of a sad look, and then hugs me, giving me a kiss on the cheek in the process.

I wasn’t expecting that, and she’s absolutely blown me away.

I head back to my beer, my woman reinstates her mask and helmet, and then even gives me wave as she rides off down Bat Dan.

It’s perhaps only a little thing, but not to me.  She’s made my day.

Final beer had, and I make my way down Bat Dan for the second last time.

Into Stainless Steel Street, the yellow touts don’t even make eye contact; done something right there; and then into the Emerald and upstairs.

Quick shower, a few notes, a beer, and some of that dreaded packing.

Out before 7.00pm, and the easy decision is made to go to our phở bò place around the corner.

Acknowledging smiles as we arrive, seats taken, and one of the women gives us a brief lesson in Vietnamese, as we’re looking at the menu.

She praises me for my attempts, while she tells Lisa off for hers, but with a smile.  Again, those little interactions.

Phở bò, as always, is good, as are the beers, but again, it’s where we are, and the people who are here.

140 000 Dong bill fixed up, Google Translate used to tell them also, and we make our way up to Bat Dan for the final time.

Seat taken, and while it’s hard that this is it, at least there is this.

A few beers, a Google Translate chat with Thien, and then a photo with him.

With Thien.

Pat the little white fluffy dog on the chair next me, who was here the other night after arriving in a carry bag, and Thien tells me they are now friends, with the dog initially not being a huge fan.

Another beer or two, just trying to take it all in, as well as a small bag of roasted (real roasted) peanuts (12 000 Dong), which, because they’re really good, a couple more bags are purchased to take to Green Village.

Lisa heads off a bit before 9.00pm; wants to take some photos of St. Josephs in the dark, apparently; and I, very reluctantly, make a move half an hour later.

I decrease my supply of 200 000 Dong notes for the roughly 150 000 Dong bill, handing it to Thien while trying to explain with facial expressions and arm movements, that I don’t need change.

He has a confused look on his face, struggling to understand why I don’t want change.

I shake his hand, tell him it’s okay, and then give him a heartfelt cảm ơn.

He smiles, as much as Thien smiles, and says, “Next time”.

I really hope so.

Back down Bat Dan for the final time; it’s hard.

Into Stainless Steel Street, and then into my convenience store.

As difficult as it it’s going to be, thankfully, Linh is there.

Two beers, and a bar of soap, the next Vietnamese lesson begins.

“Bốn bốn”, she says.

It throws me for a second.  I’d like to blame all the emotions of a final day; the goodbyes, the little moments; and while that may be part of it, it’s probably more to do with the amount of beer I’ve had.

“Forty?”, I say.

“No, bốn bốn”, said in that slightly disappointing tone, which takes me back to my school days.

I then realise my error, as it’s forty four, but I’m confused, as there’s no mười (ten), as in bốn mười bốn.

She then tells me that mười is not needed, and it’s just bốn bốn.

Aaaaargh, this language!

I hand over my bốn bốn, and then tell her we leave tomorrow.

“Oh, okay, see you next time”, she says.

“I hope so”, I respond, and then wanting to try and make up for my ineptitude over the bốn bốn thing, I give her a, “Hẹn gặp lại, Linh.”

She smiles, and then replies, “Goodbye Scott.”

While she used the ‘goodbye’ word, which I avoid because it sounds too permanent, it was more how she said it.

Accompanied by the look on her face.

Yep, she’s made it one of those little moments.

Back to the Emerald, a quick chat with Tri at the desk, with him of course acknowledging my beer, and then up to the room.

Onto the bed for the usual, along with more shoving of stuff into our bags.

It was…….., well….., it was a good day.

We went for a walk.  We saw stuff that was a little hard to look at.  And comprehend.

We were lucky enough to have lunch with some people who we really do consider friends.

We got some chores out of the way.

And then there were the people.  People I don’t really know, but people that really get me.

They were either just doing their job, or they just happened to be frequenting the same place I was.

That’s all.

But gee, they made it so much more than that.

So, our time in Hanoi is essentially done.

Tomorrow will be tough.  I hate leaving Hanoi.  I always have.

But, if you don’t leave, you can’t come back.

I keep telling myself that, but it doesn’t really make me feel better.

Alarm set for 3.20am.  Stupid time.

One more beer.

Pinned pulled by 11.00pm.

Better, but when you look at it, not that good.

Tuesday 24 September

Didn’t need the alarm.  Beat it by 15 minutes.

Damn clock watching in your sleep.

Last things are packed away, and we make our way downstairs for the final time.

Into the darkened foyer, and we wake up Lam.

I knew we would, and I know he would have been expecting it, but I still feel bad.

Our car arrives, bags thrown in, and we’re on our way by 3.45am.

The Old Quarter is dark and quiet, and a little depressing looking.

Or maybe it’s just me feeling depressed?

Over to Long Bien bridge, the market is well and truly awake, and then onto the flower market, which is also a hive of activity.

We eventually reach the turn off for the big bridge, which always makes me think of Toan and 2017, and we come to a stop.

Roadworks have resulted in a rather large trench being dug across the road, to the point that it’s unclear whether a car can actually traverse it.

While a fellow road user collects some nearby bricks to fill a section of the trench in front of his now parked car, our driver decides to take a chance.

Slowly, and on an angle to the trench, he edges the car forward.

Fortunately, for all concerned, he’s successful, and we make our way up to the bridge.

Over the Red River, and then onto the airport, arriving within 30 minutes of leaving the Emerald.

Into the terminal, some initial confusion at where we need to be, and then a brief wait at check in.

Next in line, and Lisa asks if nail clippers need to be checked in.

They’re quickly found in her backpack, and shoved in the side pocket of our main bag.

She can be hard work early in the morning……

Bag dropped, through security far quicker than it might have been, and then airside well before 5.00am.

Càphê sữa đá (35 000 Dong) savoured, but not really, as they never taste as good at an airport, and we play the waiting game.

Finally the call comes, everyone else jumps up, we wait a little longer.

Downstairs, onto the bus, and over to our plane.

The same old, same old first-world problems with watching people struggle to get organised, and then eventually to our seats.

The ‘Hello Vietnam’ song is playing, and it gets me again, as I stare out the window trying to work out where all our time has gone.

On the move just after 6.00am, and in the air by 6.15am, looking down, for as long as I can, on a very smoggy looking Hanoi.

It soon becomes difficult to keep my eyes open, so sleep is attempted.

As usual, it’s mostly unsuccessful, not helped by a screaming baby across the aisle.

On our way back down, and the sights of the Mekong come into view.  While it’s known for its rivers and water, I’m not sure I’ve ever seen so much water before.  Huge areas look to be flooded.

Back on the ground at 8.00am, and they get me again with the ‘Hello Vietnam’ song, as we wait to de-plane.

Onto the tarmac, and after a ridiculously short bus ride, we’re into the terminal.

Toilet stop, and then as I approach the baggage claim, our bag appears.

Timing!

Grab App opened, Green Village immediately pops up, and Grab car duly ordered for 268 000 Dong.

Out the front, car number plates scoured, and three minutes later, we have a match.

On our way before 8.30am, 10 000 Dong toll paid on the way out, and I show our driver a picture of a carton of Beer Saigon.

He laughs, saying, Yes!, Yes!, and then continues to chuckle to himself as we drive towards Can Tho.

Into the city, and then out a little, we pull up outside a fairly large family run convenience store.

The woman looks surprised to see me, as I try and spot my desired brand amongst other boxes of beer.

Our driver then points out the Bia Saigon Special cans, which is not really what I want, but with no standard Bia Saigon, I give up on my quest.

The question of how much is asked, which results in a conversation between the woman and the driver.

I receive an answer of 400 000 Dong, which, while I’ve not bought this particular beer before, doesn’t really sound right.  But it’s more than that, with the looks on both their faces during their conversation, having me feel like I’m being taken advantage of.

Reluctantly, the money is handed over, and we’re back on our way.

Along a familiar road or two, but also lots of unfamiliar roads, and it feels like we’re going a different way.

Into the countryside, and then very familiar roads, finally reaching the bridge right near Green Village.

To save him navigating some sharp and narrow turns, I tell our driver to pull over, handing him the rounded up fare of 300 000 Dong, despite feeling like he had a hand in getting me to part with more money than I should have earlier.

Making to open the door, he stops me, as a bike rider goes past.

I would have ‘doored’ her, had he not stopped me, and it makes me think how many other times I’ve done that, without looking or thinking.

It scares me.

Down to the canal, turn right, and then down the driveway to Green Village.

I’m so pleased to be back.

Into the communal area at 9.15am; 5.5 hours door to door; and we’re greeted firstly with big hugs from Oanh, and then Thy, who appears a minute later.

It’s so good to see them again.

We chat for a bit over a cold drink, and then Oanh makes us breakfast of fried eggs.

More chatting, with Thy suggesting a visit to a nearby ‘submerged forest’, tomorrow morning.

With no plans, it sounds like a good idea.

Off to our room, and we’re in one of the ones that was being rebuilt last year.

Wow, it looks fantastic!  And the bathroom is beautiful!

Quick unpack, and then the wall is hit, after our ridiculously early start.

A rest and recovery session is had, resulting in some sleep, but not a lot, and after an hour, we give up.

Decision is made to head out for a bike ride, which will also help with dealing with lunch.

Get organised, and while doing so, I notice my carton of beer.  There’s a sticker on the box, which I’d not seen before, and it has 340 000 Dong written on it.

I’m actually impressed at how hard she went with the overcharging, although to be fair, it was probably more him convincing her.

Could have gone a token amount, making it 350 or 360, but no, rounded up big time!

So yeah, impressed.  But also annoyed, as I’ve always wrapped the Mekong people up as being the kindest, the friendliest, and the most giving people you’ll likely meet.

I know it’s only one, or maybe two, and that certainly doesn’t define a population, but yeah, disappointed.

Bikes borrowed, and out to the path along the canal, turning left.

It’s hot, as it usually is, and we make our way towards the, relatively nearby, village.  The usual sights of lush green foliage, smiling and acknowledging faces, some unsightly rubbish, and chickens off to the side of the path, who then run onto the path as you approach.

Lucky they taste good, because they really ain’t that smart.

We reach the market, and then head on through, but as with previous food attempts here, we’re left wanting.

Back to the other road in, and then off to the right, before then turning left.  I have always struggled to get my bearings down here; every canal and its path looks the same, and the main roads, well, when you find one, you have no idea where you are, as you have no idea which canal path you were just on.

But after being here the last two years, I kind of feel I have a better understanding.

With the possibly mistaken belief I know where it goes, we take a chance, and actually get back to the turn off to Green Village.

Past the turn off, lots of hellos from kids returning to school, we eventually reach the other little village we’ve had lunch at the last two years.  But now being 1.30pm, it appears we may be too late.

We find a nước mía đá vendor, and notice that they also do bánh mì’s, so head over.

The guy is rather excited to see us, and after ordering a couple of bánh mì’s, he immediately directs us to sit down, before proceeding to make us nước mía đá’s.

It’s hot, and we’re thirsty anyway, so we allow him to do it.

And I’m pleased we did, as not only are they of a large size, but they’re also very good.

We try again on the bánh mì, but it proves difficult, until we’re saved by his wife as she walks out.

She bundles her husband out of the way, and takes over.  Our roast pork with pickled vegetables, coriander and chilli bánh mì’s, quickly arrive, and like our drinks, they are really good.

Our bánh mì lady and her, rather shy, daughter.

We sit for a bit, watching the world go by, as sweat runs down our backs.

While the husband tries, and it’s certainly not through lack of effort, it’s the wife who is clearly running the show.

They also do orange juice (cam ép), and there’s no shortage of customers, mostly young kids sitting on the back of their parent’s bike, as they pull up out the front, actually having their own bottles filled up.

Lunch done, we fix up the 60 000 Dong bill (2 x 20 000 and 2 x 10 000), and head back to Green Village.  The desire to cool down is strong, but instead we decide to ride on, to see how the construction of the new road they were building last year, is going.

Past the numerous houses in the area, and then the path runs out.  Large areas have been cleared, and it is very much a construction zone, although the small herd of cattle roaming the area, don’t seem too perturbed by it.

Out for a stroll.

We head across, and then down another, as yet, unimpacted path.

Local houses, and small areas of farmland, it feels like it’s a million miles from the building site we just went through.

Unfortunately, it results in a dead end, so we head back from where we came.

Not willing to push ourselves through uneven dirt and sand, and with the heat becoming a bit of a problem, we decide to call it, and make our way back to Green Village.

Bikes parked, position taken on the balcony overlooking the water, and the cool down begins, while writing a few notes.

The sounds from the fish in the dam, which are now rather significant in size, when they break the surface, are pretty much the only noises heard, and I even receive a visit from a lizard.

It all just adds to the serenity.

Somewhat cooled, I retrieve my bike and head back out on my own a bit before 4.00pm, in the hope of finding a beer place.

Far from confident, but prepared to have a crack, I turn left at the top of the driveway, and follow the canal.

I’m unsuccessful, but not at all surprised, and end up on the road that we travelled along earlier.

Beer sign spotted.  But it’s a false alarm.

Another found, and there’s a handful of people sitting out the front.

It looks promising, so I head over.

Two young guys have horrified looks on their faces, and I think the three or four adults are either wishing I wasn’t there, or that someone else, other than them, will take control of the situation.

I push on; “Beer?”

“Beer Saigon?”, I get in return from one of the women.

Ahhhh, we got there!

Warm can straight out of the box, and a glass with a big chunk of ice in it, appears in front of me, and I’m back doing my thing.

It’s a rural road, and as such, not overly busy, but still interesting to watch the goings on.

While they do do drinks, in a café / bar-ish kind of way, the core part of the business seems to be ice, with a couple of customers calling by to pick up bags of the stuff.

A small truck then arrives, and what looks to be 10 litre bottles filled with the key ingredient for making ice, are unloaded.

But it appears they also do rice, with a small building over the road, containing sacks of it.

The awkwardness, while not completely disappearing, diminishes, and even one of the young guys relaxes a little, as he deals with my request of a second beer.

Beer done, and to put them out of their ‘misery’, a move is made.  But there’s confused looks, and no one can tell me how much the bill is.

An older guy, who I think might be the husband of the earlier woman, steps in, and holds up a 20 000 Dong note.

For two, that’s extremely cheap, and I make sure he can see my two empty cans.

But no, 20 000 Dong for two appears to be it, and I hand the money to the young guy.

I head off, and after initially thinking I wouldn’t return; they did end up feeling more comfortable, but at the same time, I know I was worrying them a little; I think I probably will.  Partly because they clearly haven’t ripped me off, and partly in the hope that I can remove any feelings of awkwardness.

Back to Green Village, stopping off for water (10 000 Dong) at the nearby family convenience store we used last year, and onto the balcony just to soak it all in.

Our balcony.

While the fish continue to fascinate me, I’m also intrigued by the dam itself.

Well, more the water level.  It’s lower than what it was earlier!

It gets me thinking, and the only explanation I can come up with, is that it’s connected to the canal out the front.

And if it is, then the continuation of my ‘discovery’, is that it is tidal.

While I’d like to be impressed at what I’ve deduced, I’m too embarrassed to be so.  I mean really, this is the fifth time we’ve been here!  How did I not notice all this previously!?

Must check with Thy, later…..

Shower had, then up for dinner at 6.30pm. 

Fish, vegetables, spring rolls, and a chicken and vegetable soup, and it’s all beautiful, as it usually is.

Three other groups are also partaking, but there’s not a lot of interaction between them, and they all end up playing cards amongst themselves.

Must have missed the card playing requirement memo……

Nana the cat reintroduces herself, and being a cat, allows us to pat her when it suits her.

Lisa heads off around 8.30pm, while I finish my beer, chatting with Thy about life in general.

The topic of my lightbulb moment from earlier today, comes up, and yes, it is connected to the canal.

It’s good to know, but gee, I feel stupid that it’s taken this long.

Back to the room at 9.00pm for the usual on the bed.  But not for long, as I’m wrecked.

The early start, the heat and humidity, the bike ride; I’m knackered.

Breakfast is ‘booked’ for 7.00am, and then it’s off to the mangrove forest at 7.30am.

I’m looking forward to it, despite knowing absolutely nothing about it, nor who we’ll be doing it with.

And I’m more than okay with that.

Pin pulled at 10.00pm.

I’m more impressed with that than my tidal discovery.

Cheers,

Scott