Wednesday 18 September – Thursday 19 September – Hanoi
Wednesday 18 September
Up around 7.45am, and Hanoi is well and truly awake. The excitement of the Mid-Autumn festival last night, appears to be continuing.
Downstairs for breakfast – me, trứng chiên (fried egg), while practicing my Vietnamese badly, and fruit for Lisa, who is at least better than she was yesterday.
Breakfast done, and it’s up to St. Joseph’s, stopping to take the usual photos of it of course, and then down to Affetto.
A lovely knowing smile received from our girl, and we quickly have our much needed cà phê sữa đá’s, along with a much coveted seat outside.
Coffee is, as always, good, and the people watching, well, that’s never boring.
50 000 Dong bill paid, and we head down to the VIB ATM to acquire the necessary for our next purchase. ‘Other’, for the amount, selected, five million input. No fee.
Back to the Emerald to get sorted, and then across to Ma May street, with the far from most direct route taken.
I really should look at a map, but old habits die hard, when it comes to finding streets that you’ve continually walked to get to that general area.
Into 1984 Tattoo Studio, and then upstairs for our 10.00am appointment.
One of the guys, who remembers me from last year, is there, and he’s been tasked with sorting out the paperwork and the finer details.
We sit and wait, finally get the sizes sorted; my procrastination, not theirs; while playing with the resident cat.
Well, being a cat, playing with it when it’s actually prepared to interact.
It is, however, very good at drinking from a cup, and equally as good at knocking said cup over, necessitating the wiping up of spilled water.
A little thirsty.
Initial formalities sorted, we head upstairs.
Life is signed away, including that I know that I shouldn’t be drinking alcohol prior to, during, or after tattoo application, and then it’s time to start.
Boom is my guy, and Simon is Lisa’s, and the process begins of exactly where, and how, it will be positioned.
It takes far longer than you think it will, but I’m more than happy that he’s so fussy, with the several attempts not concerning me one little bit.
Finally, about an hour and a half after we arrived, the pain thing begins.
Boom’s attention to detail while setting up continues, as the drawing on my arm becomes just that little bit more permanent.
It’s comforting to see.
And it begins.
Occasional wincing at the, more ‘annoying’ than painful, sensation, that is continual ‘stabbing’ at my skin, ensues, and almost two hours in, we’re still not done.
Lisa, on the other hand, is all finished, with the job done in less than an hour.
We take a break for lunch, which is take away bún chả upstairs, in the bar area.
It comes with the offer of a beer, which I find amusing, seeing as what I read and signed earlier.
It’s a bit early anyway, so a Coke is had instead.
Back downstairs to hook up with Boom again, and half an hour later, we’re all done.
Sit and wait for a bit, tattoo all sealed up under an incredibly thin and flexible plastic second skin, along with the usual instructions.
Like the previous two times, the professionalism and care shown by the 1984 staff has been incredible.
Two anniversaries, along with two actual places, now a permanent reminder on my arm, we head off to try and find something that I have serious doubts we’ll find.
It’s someone who can print something that Lisa has drawn electronically, and it needs to be done in photograph quality.
We find the street, we think we find the building, and we head down a narrow passage way, and then up some stairs.
My confidence is not high, and I’m far from surprised when no one answers our knock at the door.
Lisa will have to come up with another solution.
It was, however, a mildly interesting walk, into and up a building which would likely be seen by very few tourists.
Back to the Emerald for a quick toilet stop, a treat of a nước mía đá from our guy around the corner, and back down to the VIB ATM to replenish funds, following the payment of our inking bill.
And just to test that five million Dong isn’t the limit, six million is withdrawn, without problem.
Close to 4.00pm, I drop Lisa back at the Emerald to work on her ‘plan b’ for the printing of the picture, and start making my way up to Bat Dan.
Into Stainless Steel Street, the yellow seat restaurant touts not showing much interest in me, and then up to my spot.
It’s quiet, with pyjama guy, who appears to be wearing something more substantial than pyjamas today, pretty much the only other one there.
Beer arrives, and the world is watched, between constant observing of my newly acquired artwork, which is now starting to weep, under its protective ‘skin’.
It’s not really a good look, but I still love it.
But that observing of my arm is a problem, as I miss photo opportunities of what I consider interesting Vietnamese sights.
The guy carrying a four metre length of aluminium pipe on his bike, along with the guy carrying the biggest lot of polystyrene I’ve ever seen, strapped to his bicycle, which now makes him at least the width of a car.
It’s always fascinated me, but frustrates me greatly, when I miss the ‘money’ shot.
Another beer, pyjama guy still there, but today he looks gruffer and grumpier than ever before.
Not sure if it’s me or not, but he does keep glancing over in my direction…..
Deciding to leave him grumpy on his own, I concentrate on the view in front of me. The rubbish ladies, working hard as always, but with two crouched down in the gutter, cutting up an old plastic rubbish bin.
A fruit lady walks past, carrying her produce in two baskets attached to a pole resting on her shoulder. They look so heavy just seeing the fruit piled up, but seeing the effort she’s putting in, as well as the flex in the pole, just confirms how difficult it is.
They work so hard.
Then there’s the tourists, either on their own, or in walking or cyclo tours.
When did those battery powered fans become a thing?
Making use of the supplied toilet facilities, which are reasonable, but hardly extravagant, I’m a little surprised to find pyjama guy already in there, as I thought he’d left.
He hasn’t, and I find myself standing next to him. For some reason he’s now shirtless, and as he goes about his business, he attempts to drag something from a very long way down, back up into his mouth.
The noise, as well as the look, isn’t a terribly good one.
Somewhat relieved, he then uses the nearby hose to wash down his feet and legs, before then running the water over his head.
This clearly solves whichever problem he has, but the process then results in my feet and legs being splashed.
That, while walking through the rain, or a puddle, concerns me not, but that happening while standing in a toilet, I find less than ideal.
The whole awkward interaction comes to an end, and we both find ourselves back out on the street, where he continues to attempt to bring up whatever it is that is concerning him so greatly.
Classy…..
My woman from last year, and last night, then arrives, along with her mate, the Viet Willie Nelson.
But like last night, there’s no acknowledgement.
I’ll need to work harder to get their attention, but am also well aware that I’m not really that memorable.
Time to head ‘home’, so 13 000 Dong beers fixed up, and it’s down to Stainless Steel Street, and my convenience store for supplies.
Linh isn’t there, so with no Vietnamese lesson today, the transaction involving 15 000 Dong beers is a quick one.
Back to the Emerald, a few notes and a shower, and then out by 7.30pm.
Part way up Bat Dan again, finding a vacant table at a, mainly phở, place we’ve been to a couple of times.
Being of the opinion if it ain’t broke, don’t fix it, I go with phở bò (50 000 Dong), while Lisa picks beef with noodles (70 000 Dong).
A Hanoi beer (25 000 Dong) each, and Lisa survives it all, having improved significantly from 24 hours ago.
Up to the beer place, a chat with a couple of locals with excellent English, resulting in them offering us a sample of a corn snack thing they’re eating, and then a lovely interaction with a little old lady selling various bits and pieces.
I rarely buy anything, mainly because we generally don’t need anything, but she was so lovely and sweet, and appearing to be doing it hard, that I couldn’t help myself.
50 000 Dong handed over, and we become the owners of a pair of rather gaudy silver and gold nail clippers.
Lisa points out that we probably would have paid similar at home, but my counter to that is that it wouldn’t have come with the same interaction, and nor would the product look as tacky as this one.
That purchase has now taken our ownership of nail clippers to three, and strangely, but perhaps more worryingly, I know and remember exactly where each pair came from, and when they were purchased.
They were all ‘holiday related’, and these are now the second set from Vietnam.
Yep, I’m slightly embarrassed that I remember all that.
The guy selling bò bía, which is not beef beer, turns up, so Lisa decides to partake in the sweet little snack (30 000 Dong).
I can’t get Google Translate to give me anything other than beef beer, but it’s nothing like that, as it’s actually a sweet honeycomb thing, wrapped in a thin pancake or wrap.
In the end it doesn’t matter, as it keeps her happy.
Not too much happening, apart from the usual, but that suddenly changes, when a group turn up and sit a few tables down.
It takes a second, but then we recognise some familiar faces.
It’s the staff from 1984 Tattoo Studio!
They see us, and next thing, they insist we join them at their table.
We sit and chat, while drinking yet more beer, and while English is a bit limited, there are a couple who are able to look after the translating.
Amazing who you bump into!
Reacquainted with Boom.
It’s just a surreal night, with it taking me back two years when we first ‘met’ a couple of 1984 staff. Tattoo-less back then, and then thinking about the whole journey since that night, and how we’ve now ended up at this point.
Amazing, and it kind of feels like it’s meant to be.
Lisa hits a wall and makes a move around 10.00pm, but I’m not quite yet done, really not wanting it all to end.
But eventually the time comes, and as hard as I try, they refuse to let me pay for any of the beers.
Boom even insists that I drop in tomorrow, so he can clean up my arm and re-dress it, after seeing how much it has wept.
I head off down Bat Dan Street, with a smile that can’t be wiped from my face, feeling both incredibly lucky and appreciative, of how the night turned out.
Back into the Emerald, a couple of beers I really, as in really, don’t need, and then sleep at 12.30am.
Yep, too late, and no good, but right now, I don’t care.
Thursday 19 September
A, not surprisingly, slow start, up a bit before 9.00am.
Through the haze, the night slowly comes back.
Yep, wow!
Downstairs for fruit, which is about the only thing I can eat at the moment, and then a bit of a chat with Jenny, who had yesterday off.
She’s as impressed with the tattoos as she was the last couple of years, but she at least humours me.
Lisa’s looking far better than mine, the morning after.
Outside about 9.30am, 1.8 kilos of dirty laundry dropped – 45 000 Dong, ready at 3.00pm – and it’s down past St. Joseph’s and on to Affetto.
Seat taken inside, two cà phê sữa đá’s arrive, and Lisa’s phone rings. It’s the girl back home, so with that being far more important than quality time with me, she disappears outside while I remain seated.
I attempt a Google Translate chat with our coffee girl, but as sometimes happens, it’s all a bit too hard.
A local nearby, seeing the confusion, takes Lisa’s spot and handles the translating.
It’s only small talk, with me just curious as to why Affetto moved across the road a few years, but I was appreciative of his help.
With still no sign of Lisa, I spend my time chatting with my new, and very friendly, mate.
Coffee done, Lisa returns, and we make our way up to Ma May Street, making a 5000 Dong toilet stop in Underwear Lane.
Into 1984 Tattoo Studio, and upstairs, where Boom carefully cleans up my arm.
He’s a seriously lovely guy, and just like yesterday, he’s incredibly thorough and methodical in everything he does.
Perhaps passionate, is the word.
All cleaned up, and re-covered.
A handshake, along with much appreciation shown, it’s back downstairs to see everyone else to not just say hello, but more importantly, to say thank you for last night.
A quick chat, and we even end up with a 1984 t-shirt, which I guess just proves we are now true ‘tatt’ people.
A heartfelt cảm ơn given and we head off back down the stairs.
It’s funny, two years ago my skin was bare, and now, two years later, I’ve been here three times.
Last night’s little impromptu catch up was not only a lot of fun, it was also a nice little continuation of the journey.
And then this morning, the genuine interest that they showed, well, it’s just confirmation of the type of people who work here.
So much so, I’m now wondering what else I can get done, just so I can come back.
Yep, I think I’ve changed……
Down to the lake, the clean up done after Typhoon Yagi, but the evidence of it still visible with a number of damaged trees, and then beyond it, and into the area of wider streets and office type buildings.
The constant stream of people wearing shirts and ties, exiting those buildings, indicates it’s lunch time, and it gets me thinking about how much of Vietnam really shuts down at this time.
It’s something that I’ve been aware of since the early days, but witnessing this mass exodus right now, makes it feel like the whole country just shuts up shop.
Google Maps is utilised to find the next elusive photo print type shop; Lisa’s research has revealed the presence of one down in this area; and after dodging all the office workers, along with the navigating of several wide and boring roads, we find what we’re looking for.
We head across, and as we approach the shop, through the window I can see two guys about to start lunch.
My confidence level wasn’t high before, and now it’s less so.
One comes to the door, and rather matter of fact-ly, says it’s lunch time.
Lisa tries to ask if what she’s actually after, is something that they do.
The short, and rather abrupt, answer is, “No”.
She tries her luck again, asking if he knows of somewhere that might be able to do it?
“No”, is again the response, as our guy closes the door.
Lisa’s annoyed, but I can’t help but feel that she’s going about this the wrong way, which is resulting in us looking in the wrong places .
And as far as the ‘lunch time’ thing goes, well, there really is no point in trying to ‘fight the system’.
Damn western thinking……
We leave, Lisa dejected, me lacking sympathy and support, and make our way back towards the Old Quarter.
Past Hoa Lo Prison; should really go back there some day, it’s been ten years; and then across towards St. Joseph’s, where we have an appointment at 12.30pm.
It’s to catch up with Shinegi, who we first met back in 2017, and have seen most times when we’ve come back.
We’re a bit early, so in the interests of maintaining a happy marriage, I remove myself from Lisa’s presence, leaving her to sit at St. Joseph’s, and take the 1984 t-shirt back to the Emerald.
Probably just me, but I refuse to queue up to eat.
Task complete, I find Shinegi on the walk back. It’s great to see her again.
Lisa is retrieved, and we partake in bánh mì’s (25 000 Dong each) from Bánh Mì Mama’s, while sitting on the step of the coffee / drink place next door.
Bánh mì’s done, we head down the lane beside the church to a café we’ve been to a couple of times, which is run by a quirky old woman.
More catching up, along with a Vietnamese lesson with Shinegi, which then results in the old woman getting involved.
She takes a liking to Lisa, even slapping her on the shoulder when Lisa can’t get the pronunciation of a word right, while, probably correctly, completely giving up on me.
It was all a lot of fun, and again, just great to catch up with Shinegi. She’s come a long way in the seven years we’ve known her, and while she’s always come across as a happy person, she seems happier and more contented than she ever has, in the small time we’ve known her.
The time arrives where all good things must come to an end, and we bid Shinegi goodbye.
Unfortunately for me, we’re not yet done with hunting for the elusive photo printing place, and I go through the motions of pretending to try, as I follow faithfully, as we walk up Hang Bong Street.
To no one’s surprise, well, certainly not mine, we’re unsuccessful, and we head back to the Emerald for a rest and recovery session, around 2.30pm.
Somewhat rested, we’re back out an hour later. Laundry picked up, smelling and looking far better than when we last saw it, and then ‘home’ again to drop Lisa off, stopping on the way for a 15 000 Dong litre bottle of water.
Around the corner, and the yellow chair touts completely ignore me, making me think that perhaps they have a photo of me on their, ‘Don’t waste your time’ noticeboard, out the back.
I would be extremely pleased, if that was the case!
Plenty of room to work in!
Up to my beer place, seat taken, beer arrives, Hanoi watched.
Vietnamese Willie Nelson turns up, and I get an acknowledgement. I’m happy.
His female friend then arrives, and disappoints me.
The highs and lows of life…..
Pyjama guy makes an appearance, and actually sits with Willie and the woman.
They seem to know each other, and appear quite happy to talk to him.
That disappoints me too.
The guy with the hạt dẻ (chestnuts) cart goes past, microwave on the bottom shelf, which always intrigues me. Where is the powerpoint when he sets up on the street?
Phone screen protector vendor arrives to try his luck, and he is actually in luck, when one customer gives him the go ahead.
But as he goes to remove the old one, the phone rings.
Phone handed back, screen protector guy waits patiently.
The shoe cleaners are quiet, but the rubbish women are not. As they never are.
So much admiration.
A young boy, probably about ten years old and very well dressed, approaches various customers, carrying a plastic jug.
He’s begging, but isn’t getting much in the way of love.
He holds his jug out in front of a guy on the next table. The guy politely shakes his head, and then offers him some of the dried chicken that he’s eating.
But the young boy isn’t interested in chicken.
I get a message from Shinegi. She has some helpful advice on where to get Lisa’s picture printed, after Lisa mentioned it to her earlier.
Why am I now involved???
A few more beers, and then Willie and the woman leave. Separately.
The always arrive separately, and they always, pretty obvious, when you think about it, seeing as they’re on bikes, leave separately.
They intrigue me.
Are they together?
Or just friends?
Maybe more than just friends?
But still not together.
Yep, the whole thing intrigues me.
Slightly worryingly……
Beers done, it’s back down Bat Dan, and into Stainless Steel Street, and then into my convenience store.
The young guy is there, and after he scans my six beers, he says, “Ninety”.
Missing my Vietnamese lesson with Linh, I respond with, “Chín mươi?”
He smiles, and says yes.
I’m rather impressed with myself.
Home to the Emerald, a quick chat with Tri, and then upstairs to get ready for dinner.
Back out, past the yellow chair touts who completely ignore us, and then up Bat Dan, with the loose plan being to check out a place that appears to do some kind of barbequed skewers, on the footpath at the next intersection.
I’d noticed it over the last couple of days, with the main reason being that it seemed so incredibly busy.
We head over for a look, and yep, they are skewers, coming with or without a bánh mì roll.
A table is found for us, and we settle on four chicken and four of the pork. They quickly arrive, along with a small bowl of pickled vegetables, as well as a couple of Bia Hanoi’s.
Simple, but very, very good!
It’s more snack like than meal like, and while it’s a pretty simple sort of ‘dish’, it was absolutely beautiful.
Another four of the pork are ordered, and our dinner is done.
Bill of 160 000 Dong is fixed up (skewers 10 000 Dong each, beer 20 000 Dong), and we make our way up to the beer place.
There’s a few around, and it’s the same old, same old, which is just how I like it.
Chat with Thien in that slow and cumbersome Google Translate way, while also trying to chat with a nearby local, who, while he has far more English than I have Vietnamese, doesn’t really have enough to allow a flowing conversation.
But I admired and appreciated his effort.
A different bò bía vendor from last night turns up, so Lisa partakes again. This time it’s 40 000 Dong, due, apparently, to extra honeycomb or something.
Another mobile phone screen protector guy appears, and even manages to rustle up some business.
Old one peeled off, without it ringing, and new one applied, finished off with the naked flame of a cigarette lighter, hovered over it.
Lisa heads off around 10.00pm, leaving me to do my thing on my own for a little longer.
Eventually a move needs to be made, so the 13 000 Dong beers are fixed up, along with three take-aways, mainly purchased for their caps.
Back to the Emerald, Tri isn’t there, but another guy, Lam, is.
He’s listening to music on his phone, and music seems to be a bit of a passion of his, with the Bee Gees, and Robin Gibb in particular, being his favourite.
I’m a little surprised at his level of love for them, as I’m not sure I’ve met anyone who has had the Bee Gees as their most favourite band.
I mention the ‘Hello Vietnam’ song, and what it does to me. But he dismisses my love for it, as well as my love for his country.
That familiarity, ‘living versus visiting’ kind of thing, I guess.
He notices my beer, and then says, “Your wife say you out drinking all the time!”
It’s funny, and it’s nice that Lisa talks about me when I’m not around.
Upstairs for the usual on the bed, and to finish off what was pretty much a nothing day.
But nothing doesn’t mean ordinary or boring, and I have absolutely no complaints.
Was fun, and tomorrow may just be similar to today, with no real plans made yet.
We do need to get a picture frame; apparently the print will arrive tomorrow, with thanks to Shinegi; the screen protector guys have inspired me to try and get mine replaced, but in an actual shop, and hopefully without a cigarette lighter, and we might just walk somewhere.
Not sure, and more than happy just to let the day play out as we go.
Cheers,
Scott
seriouslynot 