Tuesday 10 September – Wednesday 11 September – Phong Nha – Hanoi – Tam Coc
Tuesday 10 September
Up a bit before 8.00am.
The sleep helped, but only a bit.
I just feel so flat. About here, and about what’s going on at home.
It’s not supposed to be this way……
Downstairs by 8.30am, and with my guy who became all chatty yesterday being at the desk, the discussion is had regarding getting to the airport.
My preference is to not use a car, but he’s selling the bus idea with no enthusiasm at all.
I give up, and take him up on the car option at 450 000 Dong.
Making a big assumption on what Dong Hoi airport will be like, I forgo the usual arrive two hours early, instead believing one and a half will be more than enough.
Car booked for 11.15am, it’s out to do something about a cà phê sữa đá.
Down to yesterday’s lady, and while there are bread rolls in her cabinet, there is no sign of her.
We give up, and walk further down the street, finding a ‘proper’ coffee shop.
Two cà phê sữa đá’s (35 000 Dong each), and scrambled eggs on toast (60 000 Dong) for Lisa, while I pass on the food.
‘Breakfast’ done, it’s back to Thao Nguyen to complete the packing; why does it feel like we have more stuff?; before heading back downstairs to find a way to kill our last hour.
Up in the direction of the boat dock, and because it’s been an hour since we finished our last one, we find a girl doing cà phê sữa đá’s, where all the tourist oriented food places are.
Seat taken, and we’re entertained by the touts over the road, who get all excited whenever a car, or bus, laden with tourists, approaches.
I don’t even know what they’re trying to ‘sell’, but it is kind of funny seeing them get all worked up.
Second coffee hit administered, bill of 50 000 Dong paid, and we head back to Thao Nguyen for the final time.
Bags retrieved, accommodation bill paid, and just before 11.15am, our driver arrives, and we’re on our way.
Out of Phong Nha, and into the countryside, and it quickly becomes apparent that our driver is of the very courteous and safe variety.
It’s comforting, and much appreciated.
The usual sights; dogs everywhere, cows and water buffaloes in the fields, and kids heading home from school for their lunch break.
The scenery ranges from reasonably scenic, to pretty ordinary, but a new highway being built is perhaps impacting that a little.
Eventually into Dong Hoi, and then into the airport by 12.00pm.
Our kind driver helps retrieve our bags from the boot, and then stands there in a manner which suggests he doesn’t expect payment.
I kick off the ‘conversation’ by handing him a 500 000 Dong note, which he then responds by giving me 100 000 in return. I’m confused, but not wanting to short change him, I hand him a 50 000 Dong note.
Now he’s confused, and I can’t help but wonder how the conversation went between him and the Thao Nguyen guy, when the ride was booked.
Without words, I let him know that the transaction is now complete, and he gives me a smile and says, “Okay”.
He really was a lovely guy, and I felt a bit sorry for him having to deal with the awkwardness of something that should have been simple.
Inside, and straight to check in, which takes all of three minutes, but then we’re asked to wait five minutes, while our bag is x-rayed.
We oblige, standing in the middle of the terminal like shags on a rock, while listening the whole time to a local woman, sneezing on cue, every 15 seconds.
What are the chances she’s in the row behind us……
Assumption is made that our bag is clear, and it’s off through security even quicker than check in, and upstairs to play the waiting game.
We sit, enjoy a ‘lunch’ of bánh mì que (25 000 Dong), which are mini bánh mì’s, and just generally wait, contemplate, and try and follow our soon to arrive plane on Flight Radar.
So, Phong Nha. The place that had been put off due to the difficulties and time in getting there, as well as the fact that I really didn’t have a great deal of interest in caves.
We’ve done it, well, as much as you can in three and a bit days, and I’m pleased that we made the effort.
The caves we saw are impressive, and I’m very happy we saw them, but they’re caves.
The town itself?
It was as I feared. Actually, no, it was worse.
So, all done, and I’m glad we did, but highly unlikely to be ever done again.
Our plane arrives, which is the only highlight of our wait, and boarding begins not long after.
It’s the only plane we’ve seen, so it must be ours!
Downstairs, and onto the bus that will take us the 50 metres to the plane, and it all goes as smoothly as plane boarding usually does.
Pushed back at 1.40pm, and in the air by 1.50pm, with, fortunately, no sign, or sound, of sneezing woman.
The flight is uneventful, apart from a little turbulence towards the end, as well as the guy trying to answer his ringing phone, as we’re coming in to land. Twice.
On the ground at 2.40pm, and it’s raining that heavily, I’m seriously doubting if the plan of the number 86 bus is a good one.
A text is sent to Jenny, the receptionist at the Emerald, who replies that it has now stopped raining in the Old Quarter.
Good enough for me, we’ll take a chance.
Into the terminal at 2.50pm, bag out early, and then outside and on the 86 bus (45 000 Dong) at 3.00pm.
Seat taken, along with no more than ten other passengers, and we’re on our way within 30 seconds.
That, has never happened!
Out onto to the express way, and pretty much immediately, the damage caused by Typhoon Yagi becomes apparent, with fallen trees and shredded advertising billboards and signs, along the side of the road.
Over the big bridge that spans the Red River, and it is far wider than it normally is, with areas clearly flooded.
Past Long Bien Bridge, which has apparently been closed to traffic due to the swollen river, and then off an hour after our journey began, at the next stop, near Lo Su Street.
Fortunately the rain has stopped, but the amount of traffic, and the number of people out and about, is incredible. It’s absolutely nuts.
Down Lo Su, and while I had been somewhat prepared, after seeing a number of photos of Hanoi following the typhoon, actually seeing the damage firsthand, was much more of a shock than I thought it would be.
The number of trees, either down completely, or significantly damaged, is hard to look at.
That, along with the still wet streets and the darkness due to the very grey and overcast sky, is making Hanoi feel very different.
Down to the lake, and around the Northern end, with more storm damage evident.
Up Optical Street, and then over to To Tich street; it’s blocked off, so back to Luong Van Can Street.
Finally into the Emerald at 4.30pm, a quick introduction with Tri, who, with thanks to Jenny, seems to know a bit about us.
Upstairs and into our window-less room, seeing as we’re only here for one night, and the bags are dropped. A quick text to William to let him know we’re on our way, and then back out, with ponchos just in case, and into the madness that is Hanoi.
Back down to the lake, and then back up Lo Su, and the craft beer place he suggested, is found.
He’s already there, and we’re quickly back to sitting and chatting about all things Vietnam related, with it feeling like it was only a week or two ago when we last did it, and not the actual two years that it is.
And like the last catch up, the time just flies, and before we know it, his looming appointment with an airline results in a difficult goodbye.
It was great to see him again, and hopefully we’ll get another opportunity at some point to do it all again.
Just rapt that we got to do it again!
Back outside, and with the rain once again doing its thing, the ponchos are utilised.
Down to the lake, a quick toilet stop at 3000 Dong, and then up to our phở bò place from the last two years, around the corner from the Emerald.
Phở (50 000 Dong), along with a beer and a Coke (20 000 Dong each), and as it has been in the past, it’s all really good. It’s nice to be back.
Dinner done, we make our way up to Stainless Steel Street, dropping in to the convenience store to say hello to my very frustrated ‘Vietnamese teacher’, from last year.
She has a slightly confused look on her face, but when I make an attempt to count in Vietnamese, that confused look is replaced with a huge smile.
She remembers, and I’m very pleased about that.
Up towards Bat Dan, making a slight detour to a nearby VIB ATM. It’s out of order.
Over to a VP one. It’s not on.
Going well…..
Three million, which is the maximum, is eventually retrieved from a Sacom bank one, and then it’s up to my beer place.
A couple of familiar faces, with one of those my young mate, Thien, from last year.
It takes him a minute, but then he realises, and gives me a knowing smile.
Again, it’s a good feeling.
A few more beers, but Lisa hits a wall after one, having gone a little hard at the craft beer place, and decides to head ‘home’.
I sit and do my thing, and then have a local guy on the next table, try and strike up a conversation.
The language barrier is a problem, and his wife doesn’t look at all happy with him.
He then begins mucking around with a plastic bottle, and it takes me a minute to realise he’s actually making a bong, when he starts poking a piece of rolled up banana leaf in the hole he’s just made on the side.
It’s funny, and I’m not at all surprised when he offers it to me, but preferring to stick to beer, I politely decline.
A bit more world watching, along with some laughs with my bong guy, and then the 13 000 Dong bia hoi’s are fixed up.
Back to the Emerald about 10.00pm, for the usual notes and Trip Advisor session.
It’s been a long, and tiring, day, as most moving days are, and the not at all difficult decision is made to scrap the original plan of getting the 6.00am train to Ninh Binh.
Jenny, in an earlier text, had mentioned that we would be better off going by limousine van, with one available at 10.00am, rather than getting up painfully early for the train.
As much as I would prefer the train, she’s right.
Today felt like too much rushing around, and doing the same as soon as we wake up in the morning will just continue that feeling.
By road it will be, even though I would prefer to avoid that.
Wednesday 11 September
Awake at 6.00am, which wasn’t the plan, and the attempt at eeking out a little more sleep is an abject failure.
Give up at 7.00am, and then downstairs at 7.30am, and Jenny is at the front desk. It’s so great to see her again.
We chat for a bit, and we learn a little more about the typhoon, which makes me very glad that we weren’t here when it hit.
Transport to Ninh Binh is booked, a quick breakfast of fruit had, and then outside at 8.00am to do something about a cà phê sữa đá.
Up towards St Joseph’s in light-ish rain, mandatory photo taken, and then around the corner.
The big tree that sort of stood in front of the cathedral, in the street leading up to it, is no more. Well, the trunk is still there, but the tree itself is gone, after snapping a couple of metres above ground level.
I had seen a photo of it the other day, but now in person, it’s hard to imagine how it could possibly happen.
St. Joseph’s, now slightly less obscured.
It’s all a bit surreal, and while it’s clear there has been some cleaning up done, there is still so much more to do, with most streets in the area still a huge mess.
It’s really sad to see Hanoi this way.
Down to Affetto, two cà phê sữa đá’s ordered (25 000 Dong), and we have to, unfortunately, sit inside, with all seats taken, out on the street.
The coffee, as it usually is here, is good, and despite having to put up with the occasional lung full of cigarette smoke, it’s nice to be back in ‘our’ café.
Coffee done, bill paid, and a big smile received from the girl that has been here pretty much every time we have, going all the way back to 2016.
I really need to ask her her name at some point.
Down to the not too far away VIB ATM, which is fortunate, as it’s now raining again, and card pushed in. ‘Other’ selected, and what I couldn’t achieve last night, is achieved, with ten 500 000 Dong notes now crammed into my struggling wallet.
Back to the Emerald, final pack up, backpacks now bursting, but the repair still holding, and back downstairs to wait for our pick up, which is still almost an hour away at 10.00am. But with the rain still coming down, what else is there to do.
Chat with Jenny, as well as a mother and daughter from Perth, and then just after 10.00am, our van pulls up.
Off through the streets of the Old Quarter, collect another couple of customers, past Nam Bittet, and it’s all looking very grey and gloomy.
Down to the lake, and along its western side, and there’s significantly more tree damage visible. Again, it’s just so sad to see.
Further away from the Old Quarter, and the typhoon damage is even more noticeable, with the reason being that it appears that the clean up out here is yet to begin.
We turn off the main road, slowing down considerably as we do, but more so our driver can continue to answer his phone, as opposed to being able to complete the turn safely.
Around a few side streets, we come to a stop at 10.40am, and everyone is then ushered out of the van.
Confused looks abound, including Lisa, but a change of vehicle is something I was expecting, seeing as the vehicle that picks you up, is often not the one that will deliver you.
We sit around, some a little agitated, while watching the rain hammer down.
Eventually, a slightly more luxurious ‘limo van’, with slightly being emphasized, appears, and we’re on our way again a bit after 11.20am.
Well, we are, once the driver of this vehicle gets someone to open his locked driver’s side door…..
Back out onto the main road, the rain still bucketing down and the traffic on the very heavy side, and then onto the highway, with more storm damage visible, and just so much water laying around in open fields.
We seem to be making good time, but all of a sudden we slow to a crawl, as buses, trucks and cars, navigate a considerable amount of water across the road.
The water gets deeper, to the point that you can now hear it lapping underneath our van, as well as at the side of it, and Lisa’s earlier slight nervousness at driving in this weather, has increased to one of considerable concern.
“Are your feet wet?”, I ask, trying to inject some humour to alleviate her anxiety.
It fails dismally, and her eyes begin to add to the whole water issue.
With care and compassion not being my strong point, I offer her one of my lollies.
It doesn’t really work, but she still takes the lolly.
Through the water, an unsuccessful attempt at sleeping is made, and then at 12.20pm, we come to a stop, with Google Maps telling us we are actually somewhere in Ninh Binh.
We’re directed to get off, in a way that is a little abrupt and ‘matter of fact’, which riles Lisa somewhat.
A subtle hint to let it go, is given.
Into a van like the earlier one, and as we make our way towards Tam Coc, a message is received from my sister, asking if we’re okay.
Apparently, Lisa had put something up on Facebook, about our bus ride through the flood waters…..
Sister reassured, a chat with Lisa about doing such things, and it’s not long before we reach Tam Coc.
While we have been here before, or at least in this general area, it has been a number of years, so it’s all pretty much new to us.
And despite the fact that I can see big numbers of tourists, and tourist related stuff, ‘first impressions’ are actually pretty good.
Through town, and then out, and immediately I feel even better about the area, with it feeling far less touristy.
We pull up at our ‘home’ for the next few days, the Tam Coc Viet Ha Homestay, just after 12.30pm, and head in to check in.
The guy there has virtually no English, so Google Translate is utilised, but it’s unsuccessful.
Out of words to try and translate, I finally hit upon an idea, that while a bit of a long-shot, could possibly work.
I open Toan’s – Toan actually booked this for us – website on my phone, and show the confused looking guy opposite me.
“Ahhhhh!’, is accompanied with a huge grin, and we have success, as I bask in the glory that is my cleverness.
Down to our room, bags dropped, and then out for a walk to see about lunch.
Along the road we just came in on, past a family of goats, and while there is plenty of water around, it’s a bit hard to work out what is normally here, and what is excess, with there definitely being an excess at the moment.
One of the areas where it was clear that there was more water than usual.
Into Tam Coc, and yep, it’s all tourist focused, but we do manage to find a place that looks a little more local than most, pretty much opposite the boat ride.
Pork and rice (50 000 Dong), a chicken dish with rice and vegetables (60 000 Dong), and two by passionfruit drinks at 30 000 Dong each, and while it’s far from the best meal we’ve had, it does the job.
Off for a bit of aimless walking to see what’s around, and we head off the main road and down a quieter looking street. Almost immediately we’re approached by a young guy who looks like he might work for a nearby restaurant.
The questions begin straight away, and my first thought is that he’s about to try and sell us something.
He walks with us, still talking, and me still doubting his genuineness, but then I realise he just wants to practice his English.
We stop walking, and stand in the street while he does the majority of talking, which is mainly about his town, and what’s in it and what’s of interest.
He’s just passionate, while also desperate to talk with English speakers.
While ‘selling’ the area to us, he gets stuck on the word ‘ancient’, really struggling to pronounce it correctly. We halt his history and geography lesson for a minute, and with a bit of work, we eventually make it, with him now able to pronounce it perfectly.
Yep, very proud we were, and it was just a great few minutes with a young guy, with absolutely no motive other than to try and improve himself.
He thanks us, and then apologises, saying he has to get back to work, as it’s his first day.
It was funny, but it just made the whole interaction even better.
A bit more walking, but nothing much of interest found, so we head back to where we started.
Past a guy a pruning a rather large tree, who is halfway up it, barefoot, and using the overhead wires to help him get around it.
I love Vietnam!
Where there’s a will…..
Back to the Tam Coc boat ride, and walk through the open area in front of it.
Tourists, along with orange lifejackets, abound, and my desire to join them is less than zero; Trang An, ten years ago, was, and is, enough for me.
Along the main street; ‘no thank you’ repeated more than once to massage offers; and then back off the main street towards the Viet Ha.
The water that was beside the road, is now, in parts, covering some of the road.
Back ‘home’, a bike is borrowed, and then a quick ride to see what’s in the vicinity of the Viet Ha, leaving Lisa behind.
Off onto a narrow path, I soon come across a group of fifteen or so locals, standing around, inspecting what appears to be their attempt at holding back the rising water.
They have rather concerned looks on their faces, and looking at what they’ve used, and the area they are trying to control, I’d say their concerned looks are justified.
A small tour group, consisting of a tour guide, along with four or five western tourists ride past. The tour guide smiles and acknowledges, while the tourists don’t disappoint, giving me absolutely nothing, clearly wary of interacting with anyone prepared to ride a bike on their own*, and without the security blanket of a guide.
*that might be an assumption / ill-informed belief / tongue in cheek comment.
The ride continues, down a narrow lane or two, and then manage to find our street again. Back to the Viet Ha, and the woman owner, who we’ve not seen, is there.
She’s lovely, and her English is good, telling me she’s been out doing flood prevention, but is not overly confident of it working.
If it was over where I’ve just been, then my confidence level is the same as hers.
A quick check on Lisa, and then being 4.00pm, it’s back out to find a place to do my thing. With nothing found nearby, the journey into Tam Coc is repeated, but this time on a bike.
The goats are again found on the way, but this time on the other side of the road, with them also having rising flood waters on their minds.
Into Tam Coc, and there’s no shortage of options, but none of the options are my ideal. Expecting no different, I merely settle on one that looks half inviting, and that isn’t set up in the over the top way that screams out that their target market is western tourists.
Although, to be honest, had I noticed the name of the place, the Pig Family Café, before I sat down, I may have kept looking.
As it turns out, I’m pretty pleased with my choice, as they have 450ml Hanoi beer at 20 000 Dong, which while it ain’t Hue, it’s still more than okay.
Hanoi Beer, with the traditional Vietnamese pizza oven to the right.
Watch the world, although it’s not my preferred world, write a few notes, and a bit of WhatsApp, and then head back in the drizzle.
A slight detour near our turn off, and a small local convenience store is found. A couple of beers, this time cans, at 15 000 Dong, and I’ve now found my take away beer place.
Back onto the road that will take me to the Viet Ha, and while it’s getting dark, it’s clear that the water, in different parts, is encroaching on more of the road.
‘Home’ in one piece, quick shower, ponchos packed, phones inserted into zip-lock bags, and then back out to repeat my just completed ride, albeit now in a much, much darker Tam Coc.
Down the road of our little village, the street lights somewhat helping with the darkness, until we reach the part where the street lights are no more. Fortunately, someone at some point in history thought of putting a torch in mobile phones, so that solves, sort of, our lighting issue.
We make the bright lights of Tam Coc in one piece, and rather than waste time looking for something that will be too hard to find, I introduce Lisa to my Pig Family.
Bikes parked out the front, and we make our way through all the other western tourists to a vacant table.
Pork with vegetables and rice (60 000 Dong) for me, while Lisa has bún thịt nướng, which is also pork, but with noodles and other stuff, along with a slightly higher price tag.
A couple of beers, and despite it being far from my preferred establishment, it’s all rather pleasant, and, as a bonus, the food is pretty good.
The dinner thing complete, bill of 250 000 Dong paid, we head back to our patiently waiting bikes. The forethought to brings the ponchos was a good one, as the rain has returned. Plastic-ed up, we begin our journey, detouring to my convenience store for more supplies of beer (15 000 Dong) and chips (35 000 Dong), along the way.
Back onto our road, phone torches activated, and while it’s a bit hard to actually tell for sure, the suspicion is that the water level is higher than even a couple of hours ago.
‘Home’ by 8.30pm, poncho extraction completed, and then it’s the usual stuff on the bed.
For a ‘moving day’, it’s been an alright one, and while we didn’t really do much, I feel like we have a bit of an idea of what Tam Coc is.
It’s touristy, as I expected it to be, but there are parts, like where we are, that are more local, and not overrun.
I like it, and if I was asked how it compares with Phong Nha?
Well, it’s only really been half a day, so it’s perhaps a little early to form an opinion.
But, right now, if pushed for my thoughts, in terms of town feel, as well as scenery, there’s no contest.
Tam Coc. Easily.
But, it’s early days, so we’ll see.
And tomorrow’s plans?
A bike ride. For more of a look around.
Possibly climb Hang Mua, which we haven’t done since 2014.
So yeah, apart from knowing that there will definitely be no donning of a lifejacket for a boat ride, we really don’t have much in the way of plans.
I just hope the weather plays nice. Not just for us, but also for the locals.
They’ve had enough, and right now, they really don’t need any more rain.
Cheers,
Scott
seriouslynot 