Vietnam 2024 – Trip Report 17

Tuesday 1 October – Wednesday 2 October – Saigon

Tuesday 1 October

It’s here.

No, not the last day thing, although that is here, but part of the reason for the tattoos. And the trip.

Thirty year wedding anniversary.

Who would have thought……

Up just before 8.30am, and then out by 9.00am. I’m trying hard not to think of the arrival of the final day, but, as usual, it’s hard.

I feel flat.

Down Diagonal Street, and then into Vuon Chuoi. 5000 Dong bánh mì roll from the baker becomes breakfast, and we head up to our café.

Both guys are there, and as usual, we receive huge smiles, and impeccable service.

They are seriously lovely.

Cà phê sữa đá and trà đá promptly arrive, and we settle into the savouring and watching thing.

A police officer is walking up and down the road, carrying a video camera, and the locals appear a little on edge.

Two guys, both blind, are wheeling a cart carrying trinkets. One of them is entertaining, by singing through a microphone and speaker, but unfortunately, it’s not overly entertaining.

I notice a guy over the road, at one of the street food restaurants, enjoying some sort of noodle soup.

He has some kind of health issue, which looks like it might be something like cerebral palsy.

He fights his body as he goes about his breakfast, and it’s just so hard to watch his struggles.

A lotto ticket woman approaches, and then sits next to him. She removes money from his pocket, and counts it out.

Another woman then joins them, and while they appear to care, the whole thing just doesn’t look right.

But, I don’t really know what I’m looking at.

They sit with him for a bit, and then leave, taking the money with them.

He remains at the table, constantly battling his body, while I wonder what I’ve just witnessed.

It’s hard to watch, and hard to think about.

He eventually gets up, and then picks up his own pile of lotto tickets.

Ohhhhh, he too is a ticket seller!

And the women were in fact looking out for him, by protecting his money.

Well, that’s my belief, and I’m going to run with that, because I just can’t bear the thought that it’s anything sinister.

He heads off, bare-footed, and again, it’s just so hard to watch.

Coffees done, we head back to the LeBlanc, passing a woman on a bike who is either starting a new trend, or has had a rough and early start to her day, by wearing her helmet backwards.

It’s an interesting look…..

Quick toilet stop, and back out, leaving Lisa to come up with a plan for some aimless walking.

It’s decided it will the general direction of Bui Vien Street, but not necessarily into Bui Vien.

Over Nguyen Dinh Chieu, and for the first time this trip, into the hems on the other side. While they’re hems, just like ours, they’re different. But good different.

The colours of a market.

We find a great little local market, and then after crossing another main road, we find a guy selling, amongst other things, Lisa’s highly wanted hand-held fans.

The question is asked of the small variety, and the response is 30 000 Dong.

Now I can’t remember what we’ve paid in the past, but it does seem a little high, with Lisa thinking the same thing, as she immediately exclaims, “Đắt quá!” (too expensive).

In the interests of having some fun, and maybe saving some of the kid’s future mediocre inheritance, I counter with, “Hai mươi?” (20 000 Dong).

He wasn’t expecting us to trot out any of our very limited Vietnamese, and it stops him in his tracks.

He then gives me a smile, accompanied with a slightly muted laugh, and says, “Yeah, okay”.

I’m much appreciative, while also being a little surprised that I was feeling intelligent enough to throw it out there without thinking, and judging by his response, I think we both enjoyed our little interaction.

As both buyer and seller always should.

Our walk continues, and we eventually find Sign Street, as we so often seem to, when we walk this way.

It’s already hot, like real hot, and it gets me thinking why I notice it so much in the morning.

Position of the sun?

Or just the temperature shock after being in an air conditioned room for the last ten hours?

I don’t know.

On we go, finding our lunch spot from way back in 2019; I’m really not sure why it’s remembered so vividly; and then a little further on, seeing a local girl holding a tiny kitten.

Straight away I know we ain’t walking past it without stopping, and Lisa is quickly all over it.

To be fair, it was cute.

The girl actually runs a homestay, and one of their guests found this abandoned kitten while on a trip to the Mekong.

It was so young, its eyes were still yet to open, so the guest took pity on it and brought back to the homestay here in Saigon.

The owner couldn’t say no, and she’s now adopted it, but the kitten still doesn’t have a name.

Being red in colour, and because I’m Australian, I suggest the name ‘Bluey’.

I then have to explain why.

Tiny ‘Bluey’ (maybe) the kitten.

Lisa is eventually dragged away, and the walk continues.

But now not far from tourist central, aka the crap area with the tourist prices, the question of getting a drink comes from behind.

In the interests of marital harmony; I’d like to see 30 years and 1 day; I bite my tongue, and set about dealing with, and this is not the first time she’s done this to me down this way, her ill-timed and ill-located request.

Fortuitously, we come across a small place tucked in an undercover driveway type thing, and with not seeing anyone else remotely looking like us, we head in.

Yep, definitely local, and proof that you really don’t have to go far to find the ‘real’ stuff.

Two cam ép’s (orange juice), at 25 000 Dong each, ordered, and the cooling down process begins.

Much needed drinks done, we make our way down to the 23/9 park, and then on to the extension of that, which I always think of as the park where you practice English.

A quick toilet stop at a free public toilet, and then down in the general direction of the river.

Hardware Street is found, which then becomes Workwear and Work safety Street. My kind of stuff, and sure beats looking at carry bags and moisturiser.

I find a guy selling road safety signs, and even though I’ve never thought about getting one, it reminds me that I’ve probably always wanted one.

200 000 Dong is the answer to my question, conveyed via calculator.

I’m tempted.

But I’m going to need to pack it.

Tonight, as it turns out.

Will it fit?

Probably.

But I don’t know for sure.

I decline and walk out.

Regrets wash over me.

Damn it!

We reach the river, but the city doesn’t really embrace the river, and thus doesn’t encourage your embracement either, so we remain on the other side of the road.

The bottom of De Tham Street is found, so we start making our way up it.

None of the gaudy lights down here, that you find a bit further up, and it’s all rather unattractive.

But it’s real, and in my eyes, far more appealing.

As we walk it all changes, with more tourists visible, along with all the stuff they build for those tourists.

Into Bui Vien Street, and Wow!

But not a good ’Wow’.

It reminds me of an amusement park, with all these fake looking shop / bar hoardings, overlooking the street.

It’s big and in your face, but just so very tacky and cheap looking.

We walk it, my head shaking, and my mouth muttering nothing in particular, at what we’re seeing.

Our hotel, from our very first trip, is found, and I’m staggered to think we actually stayed here.

To be fair, it was a little different in 2014. But still…..

Up the next side street, and then over Pham Ngu Lao Street; we’ve made it out!

I get another request for a drink, but this time it’s a specific request, with it being a coconut coffee from Cong Coffee.

She would also like to find somewhere to have a Vietnamese salad for lunch.

“Okay, which of the Vietnamese salad places that we’ve seen on our journey, would you like to go to?”, I respond.

I get an accepting of defeat look, but no actual response.

Cong Coffee is found; I suspect she saw it before I did; and we’re soon seated out on the footpath, little electronic beeper in hand, and now minus 130 000 Dong in my pocket.

Sorry, are we still in Vietnam? Or did we leave when I wasn’t looking???

Lucky it’s our anniversary….

Anniversary coffee.

Melbourne priced coffee had, we make our way back towards ‘home’, utilising the hems for as much of it as we can, while also trying to rid myself of some of that upper end café culture.

We eventually pop out on Nguyen Dinh Chieu, exactly where we started our walk.

I’d like to say it was all planned, but it wasn’t. It was an unmitigated fluke.

Into the LeBlanc for a short rest and recovery session, and then out again by 2.00pm for a bánh mì (20 000 Dong), from our girl.

She gives us a knowing smile, and there’s no offer of any of the things that we prefer to avoid.

Up to Dien Bien Phu, and then along to the not that close VIB ATM – the things you do for fee free, and larger than usual, withdrawals.

We probably don’t really need the money, but a combination of the usual cunning plan of taking home too much, to then not come back, along with the girl back home, who is making noises about a trip to Vietnam herself next year.

Then there’s also the money that was just forked out at Cong Café…..

Five million extracted, after punching ‘other’, and it’s all in 500 000 Dong notes.

Because the ATM is attached to a bank, and because we have time, we head inside to try and increase the number of notes we’re going to carry.

A security guard prints us a docket, and then we’re instructed to take a seat in front of a teller.

Called up, our request of 10 x 200 000 Dong, and 10 x 100 000 Dong notes is met with a reply that they currently don’t have any 100 000 Dong.

Fifteen notes of 200 000 Dong it will have to be, and to think, ten years ago we struggled to find that particular variety.

Banking chore done, we make our way back out, ducking down into the hems at the first opportunity.

A convenience store is found; we weren’t even looking for one; and it seems the desire for that moisturiser from the other day, is still strong.

To no one’s surprise, well, probably only mine, it’s not found. The air conditioning, however, was much appreciated.

We walk on, another two convenience stores are scoured for a moisturiser that clearly doesn’t exist, but all is not lost, as we manage to come away with some toothpaste for 39 000 Dong.

Down towards Vuon Chuoi, stopping briefly to watch a group of guys practice a safety drill, which involved running down the street, breaking through a ‘pretend’ door, and then ‘rescuing’ a person.

It was interesting, as well as entertaining, and pretty impressive in this heat.

We give them a clap, which they seemed to enjoy.

Down to Nga’s, for one of those dreaded ‘lasts’. She’s happy to see us, as too are her regulars, and once again, we let her choose our drinks.

Today its tamarind and lime, which while nice, it requires a little melting of the ice to mellow the sweetness.

Anniversary photo.

The guy sitting next to me has some English, so we chat for a bit. He also has a hand held fan; clearly Lisa’s kind of person; and every so often, he stops fanning himself, and begins fanning me.

It’s much appreciated, as it is very hot, but I am slightly embarrassed by it.

But, it’s also an indication of the type of people you find here. Put a little out there, and I’m constantly amazed at what comes back.

While I’m fanned, Lisa spends most of her time Google Translating with Nga. If either of them ever end up fluent in each other’s language, I doubt they’d ever shut up.

But it is fun watching how well they get on.

The time arrives to do it, and just like when we saw her for the first time the other day, Nga goes to shake hands.

No, that’s not going to be enough, and hugs are once again done.

Heartfelt cảm ơn’s, to not just Nga, but also her customers, and the walk away is tough.

Again, we don’t really know them, but they’ve become like friends, as they’ve kind of welcomed us into their little community.

Around the corner to collect our laundry; will miss her too; and then back to the LeBlanc.

Upstairs, toilet, slightly worryingly, utilised for the third time today, with the belief / hope being that it is just the result of adding a little too much chilli last night.

Lisa left, and back out again for the final afternoon beers. Through the hems, with my senses in that ‘just before we’re about to leave’, heightened state.

It always happens, and it kind of annoys me, as it makes me feel like I should be taking more notice of things all the time, and not just at the end.

Reaching Dien Bien Phu, the leap of faith is taken, and as I walk inside, I get a smile from Sona and Chien.

The smile is good, but the fact that they’re both here, is even better. As much as I really don’t want to do the ‘goodbye’.

Seat taken inside, beer arrives, and I’m back doing the usual.

One of the two guys sitting at the next table asks me where I’m from, and after I say Australia, he responds with “Sydney?”

Before I have a chance to correct him, he says, “Melbourne?”

Correct!

A brief chat ensues, and just to have a bit of fun, I ask them where they are from?

I receive two puzzled looks, until the penny drops, and they laugh, saying Vietnam, with one, more specifically actually from Hue.

They return to their food, and I return to taking it all in. The beer delivery guys doing that most important of jobs, the lotto ticket sellers, the bike parking business, the hold your hand up to cross the roaders.

It’s all the same. The same as yesterday, the same as it will be tomorrow.

But I love it, and I’m going to miss it.

Geez I hate leaving……

My shoe cleaner guy arrives. He looks much better today. I’m pleased.

He doesn’t stay long, but I do get a chance to tell him we’re leaving tomorrow.

I get the understanding look, as well as a handshake.

It starts to get dark, and then the rain begins. It’s heavy.

My two mates next to me want to chat again, mainly with Google Translate, as we’ve both exhausted our limited knowledge on each other’s languages, and it seems they want to buy me a beer.

I accept.

The older one, who is doing most of the talking, points out Sona, saying, “Very beautiful!”

“Yes, she is”, I reply, but now feeling a little uncomfortable, as this is something I’m always at pains to not appear like.

I’d like to think it’s all in good fun, but I quickly change the subject.

Beer finished, they want to buy me another, and seeing as that rain is still coming down, I have little choice but to accept again.

More chatting, more beer, along with a few photos, and then they even buy a plate of peanuts to share with me.

My beer drinking mates.

They’re nice guys, but being a little ahead of me in beers drunk, it’s starting to show.

And with that, the conversation occasionally gets a little awkward.

I have a slight concern in the back of my mind, but I can see Sona and Chien are keeping an eye on what’s going on, glancing over every now and then.

It’s comforting, and it just confirms how genuine they are.

Eventually the rain eases enough, and I insist I have to go. Handshakes and cảm ơn’s given, and while it’s had its moments, I have enjoyed the interaction.

I head up to pay, and Sona gives me a knowing smile, confirming that she’s well aware of what went on.

There’s some confusion on who owes for what beers, but in the end, we agree on me paying for three.

She’s happy, and I’m happy, but I’m more grateful for her and Chien for looking out for me.

A much appreciative cảm ơn, along with a very definite hẹn gặp lại, making sure she knows I’ll be back later.

Down to Hai, a few take away beers, plus a packet of chips, and then Google Translate to let him know.

That knowing look again, and he shakes my hand. I can tell it means something to him, but I can assure him it means far more to me.

Damn these ‘lasts’!

Back to the LeBlanc just after 6.00pm, a few notes, a shower, and then back out for a special anniversary dinner of phở, much to Lisa’s chagrin.

But I don’t care, she got her coconut coffee earlier.

Down to Diagonal Street, and then up Vuon Chuoi, with a wave from Hai as we go past.

He’s making it all very difficult.

Onto Dien Bien Phu, and then into the phở place, opposite my beer place, for the traditional anniversary dinner of phở bò.

It’s good, as it usually is, but it’s also helped by the family who run it. The kids are so friendly, and incredibly passionate and efficient, with each just getting on and doing their job.

I give the young boy a thumbs up, he returns with a big smile, and then a fist bump.

I love it.

Dinner done, we bid them farewell, and head across the road for the final time.

Damn lasts……

Seats taken, and the usual begins, but this time with that heightened senses thing.

We’re sharing the place with three Westerners, which annoys me a little, but not as much as it perhaps ordinarily would, as I don’t think they’re tourists.

I’m pretty sure they’re working here, and now I kind of both want to know what they do, as well as wonder if I could actually work here.

I return to my beer; I’m thinking too much.

Have some fun with Sona and Chien, while watching a guy ‘pour’ his mate into a taxi, after what must have been a pretty big day for him.

The time arrives, and the move, reluctantly, is made.

Photos with Sona and Chien, along with heartfelt cảm ơn’s, for how they’ve looked after me so well.

They really have been so much more than ‘just’ bar employees.

With Sona and Chien.

A hẹn gặp lại; unfortunately, I just don’t when that will be, or if it will ever happen; and we make our way back down Vuon Chuoi.

Passing our café, the older guy gives us a wave, so we head over.

We chat for a bit, and find out his name is Chester, and the younger guy is Danny.

He notices my tattoos, which of course then triggers a discussion on my love of his country.

He likes that, but I’m not sure he fully appreciates that it’s people like him who actually make my love for Vietnam, so strong.

We bid him farewell, again hoping that at some point our paths will cross, and continue our walk ‘home’.

Into Diagonal Street for the final time, over to the LeBlanc, and then the ascent of the stairs for the last time.

Onto the bed for the usual, with copious amounts of contemplation, and beers I don’t really need.

The Vietnam bit is essentially done, with just a snippet of a taste of Bangkok to come.

It’s been a hell of a ride, with lots of highlights and great times, but it’s also had its share of challenges.

It always does, but this one just seemed to have more.

Having said that, some of them had nothing to do with Vietnam at all, with a number of personal issues cropping up to impact our time.

But I’ve enjoyed it. Actually, no, I’ve loved it.

The new things, yes, even Phong Nha; well, parts of that; and the old and familiar things.

And then, of course, the people.

Old friends, and new friends, and the relationships and interactions that go with that.

They just make it.

And today, again, proved that.

Sona and Chien, showing concern and looking after me this afternoon, Hai’s reaction, and genuineness, when I told him we were leaving tomorrow, and now Chester, who we only met a couple of days ago, interacting with us the way he did.

It’s humbling, and I’m forever blown away by what we receive.

But by doing that, they also make it incredibly difficult, as it just becomes so much harder to leave.

Yep, and they’ve certainly done that today.

Pin pulled at 11.45pm. Alarm set for 7.00am.

Not great, but I’m not beating myself up over trying to prolong it for as long as I can.

Wednesday 2 October

Awake at 6.00am.

Lay and doze, as the realisation sinks in.

Alarm does its thing at 7.00am; still that damn jingle; and then the final packing up.

Downstairs by 7.30am, bags dropped, and out into our hem.

The guy with the coffee cart, who I’d sort of noticed before, but never really considered, is utilised for our last cà phê sữa đá (17 000 Dong).

It’s good, and I’m a little disappointed that it’s taken until now to discover that.

We really need to make more use of what’s just outside our door.

We sit, me staring blankly at our ‘home‘ of the last few days, while contemplating how we got here so quickly.

It’s depressing, and I just so badly don’t want to leave.

But, of course, we have to.

The time arrives, and we head back in. A quick toilet stop, the dreaded goodbye to Chau, and then back outside to the petrol station.

Grab Car booked (112 000 Dong), and it arrives before we’ve even managed to cross the road to stand in the shade.

Quickly on our way before 8.00am, and off into the busy morning traffic, with my nose pressed hard against the window, trying to take it all in, and not wanting it to end.

But it does, and we pull up at Tan Son Nhat just before 8.30am.

Our very kind and courteous driver wants to give us a bottle of water, but it’s politely declined, as we’d have to give it up anyway.

The fare is rounded up to 130 000 Dong, which I think pleases him, as he doesn’t have to go to the trouble of trying to explain the airport toll.

Bags retrieved, into the terminal, and our Vietjet counter found. A short wait in line, and then the formalities begin, including being asked to show proof of our exiting of Bangkok.

I didn’t know, and hadn’t even thought of that possibility, but fortunately, it’s of no concern, as we’d already printed out our Jetstar booking details.

Job done, we head over to the happy people at immigration, and then through to security. I beep as I go through, which results in a friendly pat down.

Off to, and eventually reaching, Gate 26, and of course, Lisa needs something to eat.

Money given, as I make my way down to the gate, and she reappears a few minutes later with her airport quality bánh mì, at the airport price of 91 000 Dong.

We are a long way from our girl in Vuon Chuoi Street.

The waiting begins, and I feel rather ordinary, to the point that the toilet is required.

Slightly better, I return to the waiting game, before realising I require the toilet again.

But this time it’s different, with my stomach feeling the need the need to rid itself of part of my earlier cà phê sữa đá.

Back to Lisa, I don’t tell her, and the waiting continues.

An announcement is heard, but I don’t listen, but then realise that I perhaps should have, when the vast majority of people nearby begin to move.

The screen is checked, and yep, we have a gate change.

Up the stairs, and then back towards where we came from, dealing with vast numbers of people who struggle to walk in a manner that is cooperative with everyone else.

Airport people…..

Back to immigration and security, and then on further we go, finally reaching Gate 12.

Down the stairs, and more sitting and waiting. A few notes, and then another toilet visit, with this one just for some uncomfortable dry retching.

I don’t know what it is, but I do appear to have something, as my voice is croaky.

But, it could all just be the silly anxiety thing, which is something that I occasionally have to deal with.

Is it because we’re leaving Vietnam? Or is it that we’re about to visit a ‘new’ country?

I don’t know.

Back to Lisa, more waiting, more feeling ordinary, and more fighting of the whole thing.

Finally, around 10.45am, boarding is called. The usual jump up, we sit a while longer, before then joining the impatient.

Onto the bus, around the airport, and then to our plane. I watch my feet leave Vietnamese ‘soil’, and wonder when I will get the opportunity to once again ‘touch’ it.