Vietnam 2024 – Trip Report 15

Sunday 29 September – Saigon

Sunday 29 September

A better sleep; no overnight concreting helped with that; up just after 8.00am, and out by 9.00am.

Our usual walk of Diagonal Street, and then onto the road of our previous and present cafés.

As we walk past our laundry place, she sees us, and begins scrambling for our clothes.

“It’s okay, we’ll come back”, is conveyed in several ways, but mainly with hand and arm movements, as well as possibly facial expressions, but absolutely no Vietnamese.

We must have done alright, as she says, with a smile, “Okay!”

Past the bánh mì baker, who only bakes, and while Lisa is half reasonable despite her wine adventure last night, she’s not interested in anything other than plain bread.

One bánh mì roll (5000 Dong) is purchased, which then becomes our shared breakfast.

Up to ‘our new’ café, and as he has been every time we’ve seen him, our guy just looks so happy, and just can’t do enough to try and please.

He’s very passionate about his job.

Seats taken overlooking what footpath there is, and our cà phê sữa đá’s (25 000 Dong) quickly arrive, along with the usual trà đá’s.

They’re good!  To the point that they are right up there with the best we’ve had.  Ever!

And when I mentioned him being passionate about his job?

Even the ice blocks are coffee infused.

Or perhaps just made with really dirty water…..

We sit and watch Saigon begin its day, even getting a wave and a smile from my take away beer guy, who notices me as he purchases some fruit from a vendor over the road.

I just love this little community.

Morning coffee view.

Coffees done, we head off into the hems, and then down to the market.  Lisa wants to buy handheld fans, and while I expect her to be unsuccessful, I don’t care, as walking a local market is never boring.

Fan-less, not unexpectedly, we head back to the main-ish road, and down to our laundry place.

She immediately recognises our desire to actually pick up this time, and we give her a very much appreciative cảm ơn.

Back to the LeBlanc to drop the laundry, and then out again, with the loose plan to try and find Ga Saigon, which is Saigon train station.

Up towards the Viettel shop, and then off to the right and onto narrower roads.  It’s not overly interesting, but it is very local, and after a bit more walking, we achieve our goal.

It’s a train station, spelt out clearly before you even reach it, by the large old steam locomotive, ‘rail locked’, out the front.

It’s impressive, perhaps made even more so by the fact that they decided to display it going uphill.

I like that.

Into the station itself; the waiting area kind of looks a bit airport-ish; and I now have a desire to come here and actually catch a train.

So many possibilities, so little time…..

Back out into the grounds of the station, stopping far too long to take multiple photos of countless Bia Saigon crates; maybe even more impressive than the old locomotive; along with less impressive pallets of Heineken.

We leave the station behind, and make our way back into the narrow roads.  It’s hot, and busy with bikes scooting past, and I am well aware that that heat is going to become a real problem for one of us, which in turn will make it a real problem for me.

Fortunately, our problem is solved, when a small family run juice place is found.  We head in, they’re a little surprised to see us, but quickly find us a table.

Seat taken, and with another customer clearly concerned for us, she uses Google Translate to try and help us order.

It really wasn’t necessary, but it was nice that she cared so much.

Cam ép (orange juice – 15 000 Dong each) is decided upon, and when it arrives, it’s not only much needed, but also good.

We sit for a bit, and just generally try to cool down, while watching the steady stream of locals going about their day.

Tourist central, it ain’t.

Google Maps is consulted, a rough plan hatched, and once our drinks are done, we reluctantly head back out into the heat.

Down the road a little further, and then off to the right and into the hems.

They’re as narrow as ours, and just as interesting, but being far more ‘rabbit warren’ like, Google Maps is required more than once.

I love it.

Lots of smiles and acknowledgements as we go, and then we reach our ‘target’ of finding Hoang Sa Street, via a lane so narrow, you’d easily miss it if you were coming along Hoang Sa itself.

Canal on one side, numerous, and large, beer places on the right.

Too early for a beer, so we cross to take in the water views.

We follow the canal, find a guy fishing water that I wouldn’t, and with a little charades, find that, as yet, he’s caught nothing.

We watch for a bit, and as luck would have it, he begins reeling something in.

It’s a plastic bag.

Who would have thought…..

More walking, t-shirts getting wetter by the minute, and then we head away from the canal, and off down onto the narrower roads.

Aquarium Street is found; okay, may not have to go back to Hue to help our café guy stock up; and then an old Volks Wagon beetle goes by.

I’m far from a car person, with them holding very little interest for me, but this just stood out, as I’m not sure I’ve ever seen a VW beetle in Vietnam.

Down to Dien Bien Phu Street, see girl and her bike, along with her pillion passenger, go from vertical to horizontal, in slow motion, as they approach a set of traffic lights.

Fortunately there’s no damage to anyone, or anything.

Into Vuon Chuoi, and as we head down, a garbage truck is doing its thing on the other side of the road.  But as it moves back and forth to get into position, a local guy holding a bag of rubbish, throws it under the truck’s back wheels.

My initial thought is, ‘Really!?’, but then I realise that he is far smarter than me, as he bends down to retrieve his, now flattened, bag of aluminium cans he’s collected.

Yep, I’m reminded of the ‘work smarter, not harder’, saying.

Oh, and also the ‘never make assumptions’, one…..

We reach our bánh mì girl, and being lunchtime, two are ordered.

She points to the pate, and then the mayonnaise, and receives a polite shake of the head and a ‘no thank you’.  The rest of the ingredients are then added, before she then points to the chilli.

My head is shaking, and ‘no thank you’s’ are emanating from my mouth, before she even has a chance to look up.

Non dangerous bánh mì’s received, and the hard and crunchy outside, along with the soft and tasty inside, a bit like I imagine a snail is like, is enjoyed on our way back to the LeBlanc.

Upstairs for a much needed rest and recovery session, after what was, apparently, a seven kilometre walk.

Back out around 2.30pm, and we make our way over to Nga’s.  Into her hem, and we see our dumpling guy out the front of his house.

He gives us a big smile when he sees us, and the opportunity is taken, using Google Translate, to confirm the hem they set up in.

That done, we tell him that we’ll be there tomorrow night.

Onto Nga’s, and the familiar faces of her customers, who all shuffle along to make room for us.

We leave the drink selection to Nga, and we end up with a pineapple with tamarind and cumquat thing, which is nice, but a bit too sweet for my tastes.

She sits with us; she always seems happy to see us, but she absolutely loves Lisa; and we chat using Google Translate.

Our dumpling guy walks past; another acknowledging smile received; and that triggers Nga to begin another conversation.

Using Google, she tells us that dumpling guy’s wife died three months ago, from brain cancer.

She was only 37 years old.

I’m shocked.  And devastated.

She always looked so happy, was incredibly friendly, and just had the loveliest smile.

Yep, I’m devastated.

More ‘chatting’ with Nga, but now done with a much flatter feeling than when we arrived, and then confirmation that our café from the last two years, is in fact no more.

Geez I struggle with change, but really, that change is all rather insignificant, compared to what we’ve just learnt.

Drinks done, it’s back to the LeBlanc to drop Lisa off, and then up to my beer place by 3.30pm.

I’m the only one there, and my Cambodian girl looks a little how I feel.  I suspect she might be feeling unwell.

A local arrives, and asks for a table outside, which prompts me to do the same.

Happier place achieved, with the world now in far better view.

A roller door opens just down Vuon Chuoi, and a little dog can’t get out quick enough, leaving a puddle befitting a much larger dog.

A second dog appears, and contributes to the same puddle, before a third also follows up.

They either have their spot, or they’re in competition with each other.

A Grab Bike pulls up out the front, and a rather intoxicated guy hops off the back.

The Grab guy gives me a rye, knowing smile, with us both aware that his customer’s night will not be a long one.

A better understanding of the motorbike parking business is achieved, with the charge being 10 000 Dong, and with most of the customers coming from the hospital just down the road.

My barber from two years ago arrives on the back of his security guard mate’s bike.  He gives me nothing, but his mate gives me a knowing nod.

Beers done, a few more jigsaw pieces now with a home, I head off down to my take away guy.

Always smiling, I can’t help but feel a little better when I see him.  12 000 Dong beers paid for, and damn it, today’s the day.

With the help of Google Translate, his name is Hai.

That’s good, as it’s an easy one, and introductions are done with a handshake.

But better than that, I’ve righted something that should have been done long ago.

Back to the LeBlanc, significantly happier now, and then a quick shower.

Out again just after 6.00pm, Grab Bikes (26 000 Dong) ordered, and mine arrives first.

Lisa left to fend for herself, and I’m quickly out zipping around the streets, once again taking red lights as recommendations only.

I love it!

Across town, or is that up town?  I’m not American, so I don’t know, but we pull up on the road that the Reunification Palace is on.

Bill paid, my Grab guy disappears into the sea of cars and bikes, and I eagerly await Lisa’s arrival.

Minutes tick by, but there’s no appearance.

I’d like to say that I started to worry, but I can’t, and in the end, it would have been unnecessary anyway.

She eventually pulls up, with the issue simply being that the first guy bailed on her.

Inside, and Thuy is already there, along with her young son, Finn.

It is seriously great to see her again, but at the same time, just so difficult to see her without Stefan*, her husband, by her side.

*Stefan was someone I initially ‘met’ through Tripadvisor, around the time of our first trip, before actually getting to really meet him in 2016.

Subsequent catch ups occurred in 2019, when we first met Thuy, and then again with both of them, in 2022.

Stefan, tragically, passed away suddenly, and very unexpectedly, in June, 2024.

Hugs, introductions to Finn, and then we sit.

It’s hard to know where to start, so I just begin talking.  Not so much about Vietnam, although it is about Vietnam, but more about how Stefan impacted the way I wanted to go about travelling this country, and as it turned out, a couple of brief forays into other countries.

But I don’t get far, as I quickly become a blubbering mess.

I wasn’t expecting that, and I’m rather annoyed, as I wanted to let Thuy know exactly how much he had influenced, and inspired, my thinking.

Added to that, I now feel really bad, as Thuy, as well as Lisa, are now also incapable of speech.

It’s just so hard, as well as so unfair, and it’s all so ridiculously surreal sitting here, without him as well.

We’re all eventually able to pull it together, and manage to have a ‘relatively normal’ conversation after a very long two years.

Her son Finn is adorable, and just a lovely little well-mannered kid, but again, it’s just so sad that he will grow up without his dad.

We sit, talk non-stop, eat, and drink, and before we know it, it’s time to call it.

A few photos, and then the very difficult goodbye, as Thuy and Finn head off.

As hard as it was, it was just so good to see her again, as well as also finally getting the opportunity to meet Finn.

We’ve considered Thuy a friend from the first day we met her, and while everything has now changed with Stefan no longer here, as far as I’m concerned, nothing has changed in regards to the friendship.

Whenever we find ourselves in Saigon, we will always do whatever we can to catch up.

Grab Bikes booked (20 000 Dong), and we’re quickly on our way to my beer place, with, and not for the first time this trip, my hand being used to secure my ill-fitting helmet.

It’s a bit quiet, but it’s nice to sit and unwind a little, after a pretty emotional evening.

My Cambodian girl isn’t there, but the young guy is, and he goes out of his way to make sure we’re looked after.

He’s a lovely guy.

Back to the LeBlanc for the usual, and Thuy brings it all back when she sends through some photos.

It just makes it all the more real, and results in more contemplation.

The journey, and the people you meet on that journey.  The changes you see, and the way you change, as that journey evolves.

Some change is good, but some change not so.

But, I guess it’s all a part of it.

A tough day, but an important day.

And kind of glad to have it out of the way.

Bed, 11.45pm.

Yeah…..

Cheers,

Scott

Footnote –

Oh, and that digital drawing, of a real photo, that Lisa did –