Vietnam 2023 – Trip Report 16

Wednesday 13 September – Hanoi

Awake just before 7.00am.

Nah, too early.

Back to sleep, and surprisingly, it works.

Awake an hour later, and yep, far more respectable.

Get organised; for what, I’m still not sure; and downstairs to do something about breakfast.

I’m it, there’s no one else there.

As I take a seat, the really eager and friendly young guy approaches me, with menu in hand.

I tell him I’ll just have some fruit, which is already cut up and waiting.

He now has a dejected look on his face, as I think he was really hoping to have the opportunity to prepare me something.

I feel guilty.  Like real guilty.  To the point that I consider ordering something just to appease him.

But I’m just not hungry, and anyway, ordering something and then not eating it all, would likely be worse than just not ordering something in the first place.

I do however order a cà phê sữa đá, which while it ain’t food as such, does help slightly with giving him something to make for me.

My simple breakfast of watermelon and passionfruit is retrieved from the buffet, and my cà phê sữa đá turns up a couple of minutes later.

Both, as in fruit and coffee, are good, and I sit and contemplate the day ahead, which I’ve decided is going to include Banana Island.

Breakfast done, and it’s back upstairs to get stuff sorted, before heading back down for a chat with Jenny at the front desk.

The topic of Vietnamese iced coffee comes, and yes, cà phê sữa đá and cà phê nâu đá, are essentially the same.

Cà phê nâu đá, however, may be a little smaller, and come with ice in a separate glass.

And the nâu bit, apparently, means brown, so it’s brown, not black, iced coffee.

Hopefully that all sticks, but going on past experiences, I’m not overly confident.

I mention Banana Island, and she tells me they grow bananas over there.  She also asks, smiling, if I can bring some back.

Yeah, that might be unlikely….

Vietnamese lesson done, banana request pushed back to the dark recesses of my brain, which isn’t all that far back, and I head out around 9.45am.

Down past Cammy’s, but she’s not there, and then up towards Dong Xuan market, realising that calling past Cammy’s wasn’t the most direct, or time efficient, route to the market from the Emerald.

Oh well, that’s fine, as walking the streets of Hanoi never gets old.

Unless, of course, you get caught up in a public holiday celebration.

But, that can still be fun and interesting.  For a short while, anyway…..

The option of walking through the street market near Dong Xuan is, for obvious reasons, taken, and I’m forced to stop when I see a woman slicing, what I think are shallots, by using a large rotating stainless steel disc.

I find it difficult to look away, as I find it both mesmerising and fascinating, as the sliced pieces fly out.

The guy nearby, who I think might be her husband, is also fascinated.  But he’s more fascinated by seeing someone who is fascinated with watching a little onion being sliced, than the actual slicing process which is fascinating me.

Nevertheless, he gives me a friendly smile.

Before it gets any more awkward, I move on, and end up out on the big busy road.

Yep, small things….

Turn left, and it’s not long before I reach the ramp, which is actually the road, up to Long Bien Bridge.

Past Ga Long Bien (the train station), over the busy road, and onto the bridge proper, which means walking those concrete pavers that make you watch your feet, until you finally accept that you’re not going to fall between them.

The bikes, of which there are many, are coming towards me; which while wrong for Vietnam, is actually correct for the bridge; but that doesn’t stop a couple going the ‘wrong’ way.

While I would struggle to do that, it’s just a reminder of where I am, and just another reason I love Vietnam.

Long Bien Bridge.

Further across this aptly named bridge, I come across a tour group.

But this one stands out a little more than most, as they have bicycles.

They’re not actually on them at the moment; with the bikes being ‘parked’ on the road on the other side of the train line; as the tour participants are currently walking the train line with their guide.

And doing so rather nervously.

Could be an interesting tour….

I eventually reach the point where the stairs, which are also kind of a ramp, go down to the island, and as I do, another bike going against the flow of traffic, uses the ramp to get off the bridge.

The penny finally drops as to why some choose to ride the wrong way, with the reason being that if you’re coming from the Old Quarter side, going the wrong way saves you having to ride all the way across the bridge, and then three quarters of the way back.

Then again, I’m pretty sure there are ramps on the other side anyway, so it probably comes down to laziness induced convenience.

Down the steps, and then under the bridge, and rather than turn left like last time, I take the path that veers off to the right.

There’s not too many about, as in only the odd bike or two, and as I head away from the bridge, the noise and the hustle and bustle of big city life, disappears.

Hanoi now feels a very long way away.

I come across the swimming club, which, because I had been told about it, I pretty much expected to find, and there are a couple of locals out enjoying the not so ‘pristine looking’ waters of the Red River.

Swimming the Red River. With, according to the nearby sign, compulsory floatie.

With guard dog at the ready.

The desire to join them is slightly less than non-existent, but I guess you should never knock something until you’ve tried it, whether or not you end up with some nasty water borne disease.

The walk continues, and apart from copious amounts of greenery, including banana palms and small farm lot type areas, there’s not a great deal to look at.

Found the bananas. Not sure they’re ready, though.

I stumble across what appears to be another club like place, which, judging by the two guys I can see, appears to be a club where clothing is optional.

Although, it may be that clothing isn’t optional at all.

Deciding that continuing along this particular path is perhaps not the greatest of ideas, I make a hasty retreat, and head back to the last turn off.

Turning off to the right, the track begins taking me in the general direction of the other side of the island.  With a little help from Google Maps, I reach the ‘road’ that takes me off the island.

But the exact point at which I become aware of actually leaving the island is missed, partly because it’s not really noticeable, but perhaps mainly because I was so intrigued, for want of a much better word, at the amount of rubbish dumped on either side of the ‘road’.

I’ve seen rubbish, and Vietnam’s issue with it, before, but the amount here is right up there in terms of trying to comprehend it.

The greenery, and rubbish, behind me, I quickly find myself back in the suburban streets of Hanoi.

It’s a very local neighbourhood, with the number of bia hoi places around a bit of a surprise.

The number of locals already partaking, at 11.15am, is also a bit of a surprise

It does, however, pique my interest, but the realisation of where I am in relation to the Old Quarter makes it problematic as an afternoon beer destination.

More looking at Google Maps, and I eventually reach the big busy road.

Leap of faith taken, actually using and helped by the traffic lights, and I make my down towards Truc Bach and West Lakes, on the road that runs between them.

Reaching the lakes, and in desperate need of a cà phê sữa đá, I spot a café overlooking Truc Bach, over to the left.

Attempting to be all Northern with regards to coffee, I try my hand at ordering a cà phê nâu đá.

It works, and I’m soon seated out on the footpath with my second favourite drink in the world.

I sit and savour while watching a couple of local guys over the other side of the road, with one of them working on some sort of framed contraption.

I can’t work out its purpose, until he takes a seat in it, fits a sling under his chin, and then begins pulling a cable hanging in front of him.

This causes the sling to raise, thus pulling his head up, and therefore stretching his neck.

At least is what I believe its purpose to be.

Regardless, it was rather funny to watch, and judging by the smiles and the laughter of the other locals, I think they enjoyed having a western tourist take so much interest in this ‘stretching’ machine.

If it works, it works.

Coffee done (30 000 Dong), and I head off in the direction of the Mausoleum.

Down the road between the two lakes, and the first thing I notice is how windy it is.  It’s a bit strange, as it occurs to me that I rarely notice, or associate, Hanoi with wind.

But today it’s potentially ‘blow your hat off type wind’, and it’s caused West Lake to become quite rough and choppy.

Past the lakes, and down towards the Mausoleum, and as I pass a couple of the police guys guarding the area, it reminds me of Lisa, with her propensity to engage them every time we walk up this way.

I give out a xin chào (hello), as is Lisa’s way, and a little surprisingly, I actually get an acknowledgement and smile in response.

It’s nice, as a reaction can be a little hit and miss.

Past the Mausoleum; nowhere near the number around today, after the ridiculous crowds of a week and a half ago; stop for the traditional selfie with it in the background, again minus Lisa, of course, and then down Dien Bien Phu, towards the Old Quarter.

Bit like St Joseph’s, in that I have a desire to photograph it every time I see it.

I know it’s not heavy, but….

Over the railway line, which is still blocked and guarded by security, and then down to Bánh My Mama’s to deal with the lunch thing.

The young girl gives me a huge smile when she sees me, and even remembers how I have my pork skewer bánh mì (20 000 Dong), with regards to the amount of chilli.

Bánh mì, as always, is good, and I make my way back to the Emerald around 1.30pm for a rest and recovery session.

Jenny is at the front desk, so I stop for a chat, and apologise for my inability to bring back any bananas from the island.

Upstairs for a few notes, as well as attempt a little sleep.

The notes are successful, the sleep is not, and it results in nothing more than just lying there.

I give up, and head outside around 3.00pm, with no real plans other than to find something cold to drink.

Back up past St. Joseph’s, then around the corner and onto Hang Trong, and into Affetto.

To change it up a little, I give the usual cà phê sữa đá a miss, and go with the greatest fruit ever invented, the pineapple, and its juice.

Out on the footpath to watch the world go by, as well as a bit of Whats App-ing with Lisa.

She’s already at Heathrow airport with the girl, and while we’re ‘chatting’, the airport gets evacuated for some unknown reason.

Nervous much?

Yes.

I’ve been counting down to tomorrow for a month now, and with it down to less than 24 hours, I’ll be devastated if it gets pushed out any further.

Pineapple done (35 000 Dong), a hẹn gặp lại given to the incredibly friendly women of Affetto, and I head off trying not to think about evacuated airports and delayed planes.

Down Hang Trong, and around the corner to see if Cammy is working.  She’s not, so I head back up to the Emerald, in anticipation of doing my usual 4.00pm thing.

Back outside, after replenishing our room with a set of weighing scales, which in all honesty, I hadn’t missed, mainly due to the fact that I’d never had a desire to weigh myself while on holiday.

I don’t really know why anyone would, so I can only assume that it’s luggage related.

Along Stainless Steel Street, and then up Bat Dan, and once again I’m on the footpath with a beer in front of me.

The same old, same old sights that never get boring, and then grumpy and arrogant pyjama guy turns up, resplendent in his dusty pink sleepwear, along with matching phone cover in the same colour.

To be fair, he actually seems less grumpy and arrogant than last year, so perhaps he’s mellowed a little over the last 12 months.

Said it before, they work so hard.

More Whats App-ing with Lisa, and the good news is that they’re back inside the airport, with the girl already through to departures.  Her flight has been pushed back an hour, which is a slight inconvenience, but Lisa’s flight is still due to leave on time.

And I am more than just a little pleased with that.

More sitting, more watching, and joy of joys, a cyclo tour comes up Bat Dan.

Really, is there anything more interesting than watching a 20 strong cyclo tour go past?

Well, there is, but really, to me, it’s just one of life’s great mysteries….

The rain begins, and at first it’s little more than drizzle, but that soon changes as it starts to come down harder.

I didn’t really need an excuse to stay, but it’s sometimes nice to have one, so another beer is ordered from my now, expert beer pouring, young guy.

As the rain continues to fall, I message the girl who is about to board her plane.  Her three and a bit month’s trip has finally come to an end, and while she’s actually okay about going home, I can’t help but feel a bit sad for her.

Not least of all because she’ll be sharing the house for another couple of weeks with her brother, once she does get home.

I leave her to her boarding while watching her plane on Flightradar, which never ceases to amaze me, and just before 6.00pm Vietnam time, she’s in the air.

While her trip ending doesn’t really impact me at all, I can’t help but feel that it’s the end of something.

Maybe because it signals the beginning of something for me, and that is the final chapter of this trip, when Lisa finally arrives tomorrow, is about to begin.

Yep, just love it when I go into over thinking mode…..

With the plane in the air, and the rain no more, I make a move back to the Emerald just after 6.00pm.

Down Bat Dan and into Stainless Steel street, and then past the yellow chair touts, who despite repeated and constant declines, continue to tout me.

Seriously, I’d rather starve.

Into the Emerald, and upstairs to get cleaned up in anticipation of my 31st, and final, meal without Lisa.

They haven’t all been alone, and it was certainly nice to have shared a few meals with Mike, Cammy and Quan, as well as a couple of token attempts by the boy, way back before this sixth Vietnam thing started.

Back outside just after 7.00pm, and for something different, I head into Stainless Steel street, and over to a small street food place I’d noticed last night, and then again tonight, on the way back from Bat Dan.

The question is asked, more by just showing interest, and even though there aren’t too many stools, nor much room, I’m quickly found a spot.

I’m not sure exactly what it is that they do, so I leave it to them to sort it all out, and it’s not long before I have a plate of stir fried noodles with beef and greens, along with a bowl of what I think is pickled daikon?, in front of me.

The question of beer is asked, and it seems the old guy set up behind me is in charge of the drinks department.

It’s 333 beer, or ba, ba, ba, which is fine, partly because I love saying it, and it’s come straight out of a box full of ice, which means it’s already nice and cold.

Happy days indeed!

Changing it up from last night.

While the beer is cold, the food is also really good, and when a couple of Western tourists show some interest, but significantly more nervousness and apprehension, I give them the thumbs up to encourage them to give it a try.

They’re appreciative of the ‘feedback’, as too are the owners, and as they move across, room is made for them.

Dinner had, I sit back and take in the sights of probably my now favourite street, while finishing my beer.

With my Western tourist friends deciding to partake only in food, their visit is shorter than mine, and once their dinner is done, their bill is paid and they’re off.

Did they enjoy their food?

I have no idea.  There was no acknowledgement, one way or the other, directed in my direction, which really shouldn’t bother me.

But it does annoy me slightly, with the fact that it does annoy, also annoying me.

If that makes sense.

Anyway, I need to learn to move on, and I take the opportunity to do so literally, fixing up my dinner bill – 60 000 Dong food, 20 000 Dong beers – and heading back up to Bat Dan.

It’s not overly busy, but there are a few around, with a reasonable number of them being expats.

I keep a track of Flightradar, which still says Lisa’s plane is due to leave on time, while also Whats App-ing her while she waits to board.

A few beers, the world watching thing, and quite a bit more texting to London, right up to, and just after, the boarding actually happens.

Lisa mentions something about being upstairs, which prompts me to have a closer look at what plane she’s actually on.

Yep, it’s an A380, and to say that I’m a little jealous, would be a totally incorrect statement.

Majorly envious?

Yes, and probably made worse due to the fact that she had no idea she would be flying on said aeroplane.

Such a waste….

Locked away in her ‘little’ plane, with ‘talking’ no longer possible, I begin making my way back to the Emerald just before 10.00pm.

It’s strange, I feel a bit flat, and I’m really not sure why.

Maybe it’s the fact that what has transpired so far away today, coupled with what tomorrow brings, is signalling the reaching of a milestone.

While it’s a good milestone, it’s also one that makes me realise that it’s the beginning of the end.

Yep, even though we still have two weeks.

Damn my overworking brain…..

Down to, and then through, Stainless Steel street, stopping briefly to watch a rather large, and noisy, concrete mixer truck begin emptying its contents into a concrete pump, which will no doubt, at this time of night, please the nearby residents immensely.

Into the Emerald, and Anh is at the desk.

His smiling face and friendly nature immediately snaps me out of my slightly sombre mood, and we chat for a bit.

He knows Lisa is due tomorrow, and is interested in how she’s getting here from the airport.

It’s something that I’ve been contemplating for over a month now, with the general thinking being that I was going to catch the number 86 bus to the airport, to ‘pick her up’.

But after my Grab Bike ride in Saigon, I’m thinking that option might be more fun.

I tell Anh my thoughts.

His demeanour immediately changes, and in a more hushed voice than usual, he replies, “No, no, no, it’s not safe”, with a pause between each word, while also shaking his head from side to side, while looking down.

I try to talk up the idea, but he’s having nothing of it.

He’s just so protective, and I love that he cares so much.

A bit more chatting, and then I leave him to do his thing, but not before he repeats his advice of how not to travel to the airport.

Point taken, and while I really want to do the bike thing, he’s now made me really stop and think.

Not so much because I’m worried about it, but more that I think he’d be really disappointed in me if I went against his advice.

I now no longer feel like the parent…..

Upstairs by 10.30pm for the usual on the bed, and yep, all that contemplation that I am prone to do.

The last month has been an interesting journey, and if I’m honest, in the lead up to it, it filled me with dread.

I really wasn’t sure how I’d cope, and the reason for that is probably the fact that in the over 32 years since I’ve known Lisa, we’ve never been apart for as long as we have this time.

But now we’re essentially here, partly helped / partly hindered by my annoying desire to count down such events / moments, and it all feels a little surreal.

So, how was single life?

Yeah, it was okay.

But I really missed the opportunity over the last few weeks to share the stuff I’ve seen and done, with Lisa.

The whole Vietnam thing, even though we didn’t realise it until after that first trip in 2014, has been a journey, and one that I’ve always considered a partnership, even if she has, at times, done my head in over the years, with some of her beliefs and tendencies.

But that; the good and the not so good; is all a part of it.

Thirty sleeps down, one to go; yep, still doing the countdown thing; and at 11.30pm, it’s time.

And yep, too late again…..

Cheers,

Scott