Vietnam 2024 – Trip Report 3

Friday 6 September – Saturday 7 September – Hue – Phong Nha

Friday 6 September

That alarm actually gets to do its thing, and once again, that damn jingle.

Yesterday’s stomach issues seem to be a thing of the past, and we’re downstairs by 7.00am.

There’s no sign of Eva, but her husband is there, and all of a sudden, a girl appears.  She says something to him, and he turns to us and says, “Phong Nha?”

“Yes”, and we’re immediately directed to the large-ish van / bus, which holds about 20, out the front.

As much as I hate ‘goodbyes’, I hate not doing them more, and I’m gutted that we didn’t get the opportunity to say goodbye to Eva.

Around the streets of Hue, stopping occasionally to pick up more, including many simply carrying small backpacks.

It all runs smoothly, with the girl, who is actually a tour guide, doing the running and collecting of bodies, while the driver looks after the maneuvering side of things.

Over the river, past our bike ride sights, and then out of Hue.

Forty minutes in, we pull over for a rest stop.  It’s a bombed church from the war, with an unbelievably massive replacement that has been built, and is still being built, behind it.

It’s been under construction for 12 years so far, and it’s so big, and so over the top, it’s almost mildly interesting.

The bombed church, however, is far easier to look at and admire.

This?

Nah, this!

A quick toilet stop, which is free, and then a brief chat with the tour guide, while we wait for everyone to return.

She asks if we have plans for Phong Nha, and if we’re interested in joining a tour, which then causes the penny to finally drop.

The people boarding the bus with minimal luggage had me mildly intrigued, so I ask the question if most of the people who are on the bus, are actually doing a day trip to Phong Nha.

She says yes, while rolling her eyes and nodding, clearly thinking the exact same thing I am – that 4.5 hours each way, is a hell of a lot of time to spend on the road for just a day trip.

Back on our way, and the swaying of the bus, along with the bumpy ride, is making things difficult.  It’s also rather cramped, and hard to get comfortable.

I doze, mostly unsuccessfully, while seeing things of little interest out the window.

Although it was nice to see the blue and yellow bridge, that separated the North and South, again, after last seeing it 10 years ago.

It could, however, do with a paint.

More dozing, more discomfort, and then some massive wind turbines, as we get closer to Dong Hoi.

Through the outskirts of Dong Hoi, and then inland towards Phong Nha, the stiffness and cramping in my legs is absolutely killing me.

I’ve had enough, and the driving, which while not terrible, isn’t helping.

Eventually we turn off the highway, where the big ‘Phong Nha Ke Bang’ sign has been so tastefully mounted, onto one of the limestone karsts.

Into town around 11.30am, and we’re dropped off at the visitor centre where the day trippers will be fed, and the rest of us are left to our own devices.

Being of the opinion I know, roughly, where we are, we walk back the way we’ve just driven, lugging my backpack and a bag which is getting heavier with each step.

Reaching the point where I believe our accommodation is, I’m lost, as I can’t see it.

Lisa then points to it on the side of the road that I thought it wasn’t on, which is both good and bad.

Into the Thao Nguyen Homestay, a quick check in, and we make our way up to the fourth floor via the glass lift, and into the room that overlooks the pool.

It’s a nice outlook, and the room more than satisfactory, once we work out the fan and the air conditioning, as well as dealing with the key tag in the wall mount, that keeps my fridge doing what fridges do.

Back outside in search of a cà phê sữa đá, but that desire is changed when we realise we’ve not yet eaten today.

A walk down the main street, which is pretty much the only street, and first impressions are what I was concerned about when booking this part of the trip.

Lots of restaurants set up for western tourists, with not too much noticeable in the way of small local places.

The walk continues, and still nothing jumps out, with many of the restaurants being very quiet, or even completely empty.

We manage to find a busy one, and with not too many other options, we take a chance.

It’s full of western tourists, but there’s also a group of locals, who, judging by the fact that they’re all wearing the same t-shirts, may all be tour guides.

Avoiding the hamburgers and other western delicacies, we settle on the more local food options of stir fried beef and vegetables with noodles (90 000 Dong), while Lisa has the same, but minus the beef (80 000 Dong).

A couple of juices, one orange, one passionfruit (60 000 Dong each), and while it’s all pretty good, the prices clearly indicate we are a very long way from our food street in Hue.

Lunch done, we head off for a bit more of a look around.  Not finding much further on while still walking away from the hotel, the road is crossed and we make our way back.

Past Drifter’s Paradise Pizza, of which I had been told about the other day by the Australian couple in Hue, with the belief that ‘Drifter’ of Trip Advisor fame, has something to do with said restaurant.

Will hopefully find out at some point in the next few days.

The walk continues, past both the Indian restaurant and Thao Nguyen Homestay, and back towards the visitor centre where we were dropped off, with my earlier concerns on the town appearing to be more confirmed than they were before.

We take a side road off to the right, which should, I believe, take us to the river.

It does, and after walking a path strewn with rubbish and broken building materials, we reach the river, to discover more rubbish lining the bank.

It’s far from surprising; I actually expected it; but it does make me wonder when I think back to reading about people swimming in this particular river.

Just some of the boats that take you to the cave.

Back towards the main road, but we turn off to the left, down a much more local looking road.

It’s lined with houses, and we get a few ‘hellos’ from the local kids.

That’s nice, as it always is, but one ‘hello’ comes from a boy of about 5 years old, who promptly sticks his middle finger up at us, when we reciprocate.

A couple of other ‘greeters’, not much older, then say something after we respond to their ‘hellos’, laughing while they do.

I can’t help but feel we’re being insulted, and they are really not helping with what I’m feeling at the moment about their town.

My mind is far from closed on that matter, but it is becoming difficult.

Back to the Thao Nguyen, a couple of friendly smiles from older locals helping slightly, and it’s time for a rest and recovery session after our early start.

It helps somewhat, but after my toilet issues yesterday, it’s now Lisa’s turn, with her choosing to remain close, while I head out solo around 3.00pm, in search of the day’s still missing cà phê sữa đá.

Back down the main street, hoping all the non-touristy local places will have somehow magically appeared, but alas, I’m left with cafés that look too much like the ones I see at home.

I give up on the coffee idea, coming to the conclusion that I’m likely looking for something that doesn’t exist, and it simply becomes a walk, before heading back to see Lisa.

It, apparently, was wise that she stayed ‘home’, as it hasn’t been that great, so I leave her to deal with her issue, and head back out to do my beer thing.

Not really seeing anything earlier that didn’t look like a western tourist oriented bar, I head down to Paradise Pizza.

Beer is no problem, and I quickly have a very cold Huda stubby in front of me.

I sit, and watch, even though there really isn’t a great deal to watch, and listen to the chirping gecko on the wall, as well as the light rain that is now falling.

The rain, for obvious reasons, reminds me of the weather, but more specifically, Typhoon Yagi which is fast approaching the North.

Reports of it over the last couple of days indicate it’s going to be big, and while we should be far enough south for it not to have any great impact on us, it has caused me to think a fair bit about it, not knowing how far its reach may be.

Beers fixed up at 20 000 Dong each, and it’s back to the Thao Nguyen around 6.00pm.

Quick shower, another beer, and with Lisa appearing to be on the improve, we make our way downstairs to see if I can find what I suspect is unfindable here in Phong Nha.

There’s a very busy restaurant a few doors down, which is good, but it’s full of people that look like us.

Albeit, a little younger.

I really don’t want to do it, so we walk on.  A local place is then found, but it’s empty; not a single customer, empty.

It quite possibly is fine, but everything I’ve been taught with what I’m looking at, is telling me no.

We walk a bit further, and it’s more empty restaurants.  But empty western restaurants.

It just feels really quiet, and it has a strange feel to it.

I give up, and we, reluctantly, return to the busy restaurant we passed earlier.

They find room for us outside, and avoiding the usual western hamburger and fries options, we end up with a rather large cold pork with noodles dish, along with various vegetables (80 000 Dong).

The food is actually pretty good, and with beers at 20 000 Dong, that’s not bad either, but a place like this is just not us.

Well, not me anyway.

The waitresses are incredibly friendly, with one in particular really keen to chat, and we spend a fair bit of time talking to her.

Dinner done, we head down to Drifter’s Paradise Pizza to continue doing what I was doing earlier, but there’s no sign of anyone who could possibly be the ‘Drifter’ that I ‘kind of’, but not really, know.

We sit and watch, but again not that much; it just seems such a quiet town; while listening to the chirping geckos, as well as watching a rat scurry down the street.

It reminds me that I’ve missed them.

Time to make a move back to Thao Nguyen, and as Lisa heads upstairs, I make my way to the rather large convenience store nearby, for a few drinks and some chips.

All bagged up and paid for, I check the receipt, purely just out of interest, on the way out.

There’s a miscellaneous 2500 Dong charge on it, which I can only assume is for the plastic bag.

But, according to the camera setting on Google Translate on my phone, I’m wrong.

It’s a refrigeration charge, charged at 500 Dong per refrigerated item bought, which is definitely a first.

And it’s taken a trip to Phong Nha to see it!

Back to the room for the usual.  Lisa’s knackered, and I’m feeling it too, even though we’ve really done very little today.

Damn moving days…..

Tomorrow will probably involve a cave, seeing as that’s what this place seems to exist for, and then perhaps an attempt to see the Duck Stop, which thanks to some research, Lisa knows far more about than I do.

Saturday 7 September

An overwhelming feeling of lethargy is fought, and it’s up at 8.00am.  I’m stiff, and kind of achy, perhaps even a little sinus-y, but apart from not feeling great, I’m not really sure what’s going on.

On the positive, Lisa is better than last night, so it’s downstairs to do something about breakfast.

Into the open reception / restaurant area, and it’s a fried egg and a roll, so I guess it’s a bánh mì opla, for me, while Lisa has a crepe with banana.

The food is alright, the cà phê sữa đá’s are not.

It’s all forced down, then it’s back upstairs to get ready, with Phong Nha cave this morning’s plan.

Outside a bit after 9.00am, and it’s windy.  And windy to the point that it makes me think about Typhoon Yagi.

It’s far from gale force, but it’s enough to certainly be noticed.

Over to the boat dock, and the deal is 150 000 Dong for a cave ticket, while the boat to get you there is 550 000 Dong.

We’re asked if we’d like to share a boat to split the cost, and when we answer yes, we’re directed to go and sit nearby and wait.

The other tourists we’d seen in the vicinity as we walked here, of course now seem to have vanished, which is a bit like taxis, with you only ever seeing them when you don’t actually want one.

We sit for a bit, and eventually two girls, who we just happened to notice at the restaurant last night, make their way to the ticket window.

The question is asked, and yes, Charlotte from Germany, and Lara from Switzerland, would love to split the boat cost.

Onto the boat, mandatory life jacket applied, and we’re off around 10.00am.

Past all the ‘homestays’, which are further out of town, on the left, while the right of the river looks far less inhabitated.

The scenery is good, and despite the wind which is making it a little choppy, it’s nice to see it from the water.

The entrance to Phong Nha cave.

We reach the entrance to Phong Nha cave about 30 minutes later, and our guy at the back kills the motor, and starts paddling, with the help of the woman up the front.

The size of the entrance to the cave gives no clue to how big it actually is inside, and the sheer scale of it is hard to comprehend.

And that, along with the dimness of the light inside, makes it very difficult indeed to photograph.

We reach the end, which apparently is not the end at all, and we’re instructed to make our way back on foot to the entrance.

Again, it’s amazing, and the colours stunning, but at the end of the day, it’s a cave.

More photos are attempted, but it all seems like a waste of time trying, as it just feels so hard to get any context or perspective on what I’m seeing.

Lisa’s photo attempt. Me, walking the boardwalk with Charlotte and Lara, along with the much coveted ‘leading lines’. Oh, and the scenery of a cave…..

Yep, here’s another one that just doesn’t work…..

Back to the entrance, and the touts in the souvenir / food / drink area, begin to do their thing.

A polite decline, a quick toilet stop, and then we’re back on our boat by 11.30am, and back to the dock around 12.00pm.

It was fun, and I’m glad I saw it, but again, it’s a cave.

Back to Thao Nguyen, laundry bagged up, and laundry-offering convenience store found further down the road than was ideal.

Three kilograms – 120 000 Dong – ready tomorrow – fine.

Back ‘home’, a couple of bikes borrowed, and we make our way out to the main road that we drove in on yesterday.

It’s not the greatest of roads to be on, as it’s a little more ‘main’ than I’d like, but it’s okay.

Well, it’s okay until I’m reminded about the size of some of the vehicles we’re sharing the road with, when a bus is driven past me at a distance that is less than arm’s length away, at over 60 kms/ph.

The arrogance, lack of care, lack of understanding, lack of intelligence, is, well……

Apart from that, it’s relatively easy going, with the wind being more of a tail one.

Quintessential Vietnamese countryside, along with the occasional water buffalo in the fields, but it’s far from stunning, with the vast majority of rice appearing to have already been harvested.

On we go, stopping now and then to make sure we haven’t missed our turn off, before then seeing the unmissable sign directing us to turn right.

Another kilometre or two, on a much more user friendly and scenic road, and we reach our destination, The Duck Stop, some 45 minutes after leaving Phong Nha.

Bikes parked, and we’re immediately made to feel welcomed by an incredibly friendly guy.  100 000 Dong for the duck only tour, along with a lunch of bánh xèo and a drink, or a little more to sit on a water buffalo.

We decide to skip the water buffalo, and we quickly have replacement footwear, which immediately feels ominous.

Off we go, having various plants, trees and fruit pointed out to us, and then we reach the ducks.

Our guy lets the ducks know of our imminent arrival, helped by handfuls of duck food, and it’s quite the sight watching an excited flock of ducks swarm around him.

It’s then our turn to interact with them, and I’m not sure I’ve seen Lisa laugh and giggle that much before.

To be honest, I probably haven’t either.

It’s an interesting experience, and one that is so very well run, but more than that, it is simply just a lot of fun.

The sensation, and scene, of ducks eating from between your feet, is like nothing I’ve felt!

Waiting patiently, but excitedly, for the food to fall!

Back to the main area, the world feeling that little bit better, and our footwear is once again swapped over, and our legs and hands washed down of duck related stuff.

Lunch is had, which while simple, is good, along with a Coke, and a very informative and enjoyable chat with our guide.

Not much more than an hour after we arrived, we head back to our bikes, still with smiles on our faces.  Knowing that the ‘The Pub with Cold Beer’ is not too far away, we decide to go take a look.

And sure enough, about a kilometre further on, we find it.

Beer ordered from the girl who has her phone conversation interrupted, and we have the run of the place, with no other visitor in sight.

It’s a nice enough place, with a reasonable view over the countryside, but if you’re going to name yourself ‘The Pub with Cold Beer’, then it needs to be cold.  Not just ‘fairly’ cold.

But, was still nice to sit and relax a bit, while simply taking in some of the natural landscape.

A view and a beer.

One beer had, and with still no one else to talk to, we make a move back in the direction we came.

A brief stop to ‘chat’ with an incredibly inquisitive water buffalo, who was either pregnant, or had been in an extremely rich field, before losing the scenic road when we return to the main one.

That earlier tail wind was now a head wind, but being slightly across, it could have been far worse.

Turn off into town, and we’re back at Thao Nguyen around 3.30pm, parking the bikes next to half a dozen newly arrived dirt bikes.

Could be interesting…..

The ‘sign’ that indicates that you’re almost there….. 

Upstairs for a quick cool down, and then back downstairs at 4.00pm, bumping into the young guy who seems to look after the hotel, but who we haven’t seen a great deal of.

400 000 Dong to ride pillion, with an easy rider, out to Paradise Cave, apparently, is the answer to my question, before heading off to the pizza place.

Inside, and there’s a western guy sitting there, who immediately jumps up to help with my beer request.

I’m not sure, but ask the question, and yes, I am in fact talking to my Trip Advisor mate, Drifter.

He’s a lovely guy; originally from America; very easy to talk to, and while he no longer owns the restaurant, he still helps out the current owners.

A mate of his, Pete, a fellow Aussie, and one who is living reasonably long term here, then appears and joins us.

He too is easy to talk to, and it’s great to sit back and hear a little bit more about the town, from people who actually ‘live’ here.

All too soon it’s time to make a move, and I head back to Thao Nguyen around 6.30pm.

Quick shower, and then back out, but this time turning left.  There’s a restaurant a few doors up, with a number of western tourists in it, including the dirt bike riders, so we head back the other way, and end up in last night’s place, which, like last night, is full of western tourists.

The food, some kind of pork dish with lemongrass and rice for me, and a beef hot pot for Lisa, is, not unexpectedly, very good.  But again, it’s not really the type of place we look to frequent when here.

The staff, however, do somewhat make up for it, as they are incredibly friendly and attentive.

Food done, along with a couple of beers, and the 310 000 Dong bill is fixed up, leaving our fellow diners to finish their hamburgers and other assorted non-Vietnamese meals.

Down the main road, and we come across a not so small local looking café / restaurant place, that may be able to help us with a beer.

Walking in, we’re immediately recognised by a girl sitting at the only other occupied table, who was working at our restaurant last night.

She’s with a couple of friends, along with a guy, and even though she doesn’t work here, makes a bit of a fuss over our arrival.

Our beer arrives, and being of the un-cold variety, we also have the means of correcting that, in the form of chunks of đá (ice).

It’s more my kind of place, but while our waitress from last night, as well as her girlfriends, are lovely, the young guy, who is making more noise than a group of ten returning home at 3.00am, is carrying on like an absolute moron.

One beer had, and the desire for a possible second has completely disappeared, due totally to the idiot on the nearby table, who has made the whole thing very awkward and uncomfortable.

The owners, however, don’t seem too concerned, which is fine by me, as I won’t be concerning myself with returning.

40 000 Dong bill fixed up, a feeling of relief attained when we exit, and we make our way ‘home’, stopping at a small family run convenience store to both support the ‘little guy’, as well as maybe see if everyone one is charging, and itemising, for refrigeration.

Yep, I can be caring and inquisitive, as well as a little petty, all at the same time.

I have a bit of fun with the friendly lady, while trying to use my rudimentary Vietnamese, and then hand over the same amount per beer, as I just did in the ‘restaurant’.

No docket to see about refrigeration costs, but at just over 50% more than what I paid last night, I guess the keeping them ‘cold’ fee, has already been built in.

Back to the room to do what we do, now with our first full day in Phong Nha, essentially done.

It was, for the most part, a pretty good day.

Phong Nha cave was good to see, but it is just a cave.  And that was one of my concerns, and one of the reasons that I’d put off a visit here for so long.

I guess I’m just not really a cave person.

The ride out to the Duck Stop was fun, but probably more so once we got off the main road.

The Duck Stop itself, I loved, despite it being one of those touristy things I tend to avoid.

I’m not really sure why I enjoyed it so much.  Perhaps it was because I had no idea what to expect?  Perhaps because it was just the two of us, and not a group?  Perhaps it was just because it’s such a great idea, and it’s just so well run?

Maybe it’s all of the above?

The Pub with Cold Beer?

Yeah, maybe on its day, but today it just lacked any real atmosphere.

But then there’s the little things, with each one pretty insignificant, but when they’re put together, they start to add up.

The inability to find the local food places / carts / small family run businesses, that aren’t reliant on western, and maybe local, tourists, visiting their town.

It was my great concern prior, so I guess I did have a little advanced warning in that regard.

And then there’s the people.

The staff here at Thao Nguyen.  If you see them, it ranges from basic helpfulness to no acknowledgement at all, with very little, if anything, in between.

The kids yesterday, and yes, I know it’s probably not really their fault, but it does perhaps indicate how tourists are viewed.

And then there was the idiot tonight.

A bit of noise.  A bit of a joke, and a bit of fun; I have no problem with.

But when it becomes over the top, to the point of customers; and yes, I do believe he was part of the family; feeling uncomfortable, well, that’s a problem.

Anyway, despite the efforts of the people like Drifter, and Pete, the waitresses at the restaurant, the guy at the Duck Stop, along with a few others, I’m struggling a bit with the town of Phong Nha.

But, I am determined to try and make something of it.  To get as much out of it as I can, over our next two days.

Fingers crossed I can.

Cheers,

Scott