Tuesday 26 September – Saigon
Eyes open; 7.45am.
Feel….., okay, but yeah, it’s still there.
Get organised, and outside by 8.30am.
Over to Diagonal Street, and then down to our café for our usual cà phê sữa đá hit.
The sitting, savouring, and watching begins, and it’s all same old, same old, but far, as in really far, from anything even remotely boring.
Familiar faces, familiar sounds, familiar sights. I just never tire of it.
Even the older Grab guy over the road on his chair, feet on his bike, nods off, almost on cue.
My phone makes a noise. It’s someone from the cricket club back home. They need someone to captain one of the teams, and knowing that they don’t have a plethora of people, as in they won’t have any, lining up waiting to be asked, I pretty much knew that they’d pick the soft target of the guy who struggles to say no.
I’m just a little surprised they’ve taken this long.
They’re told what they hoped to hear, and I return to the scenes of Saigon unfolding in front of me, trying very hard to not think about what now needs to be done next week, in anticipation of our first match in just eleven days’ time.
Coffees done, we head back to the Le Blanc for a quick toilet stop, before heading back out to do, well, not a great deal.
It’ll be a walk, with the loose plan being that the walk will be to Hồ Con Rùa, otherwise known as Turtle Lake.
We’ve been there before, a couple of times, but always at night, and there’s a slight desire to see it during the day.
But the desire is only ‘slight’, as it’s, well, just a pond with a big monument thing in the middle of it.
It’s kind of impressive, but hardly a major tourist attraction, and really, it’s just a destination to find, in the hope that we’ll come across something, or merely see something, far more interesting.
But, I’m not overly hopeful of that, seeing as what we have seen up that way, albeit mostly at night, hasn’t filled me with any great excitement.
Onto, and up, Nguyen Dinh Chieu, and past the burning Buddha statue, that always makes me stop and think.
The walk continues, and while the ‘sights’ aren’t completely awful, it’s all pretty boring, with mostly large blocks and buildings making up the scene. It’s certainly not an area that I’d be keen to stay in.
Our target is eventually found, and yep, it’s a monument in a dirty looking pond, surrounded by higher end looking food / coffee / international type branded establishments, along with the smell of rubbish in the air.
‘Turtle Lake’.
I’m far from disappointed, seeing as I had fairly low expectations to begin with, along with the fact that this whole exercise had very little to do with the destination itself.
Couple of photos to prove we made it, a mental note to maybe only return at night, and we head off in the general direction of Notre Dame Cathedral.
While we’d not noticed one western tourist all morning on our travels, that immediately changes as we approach the intersection behind the cathedral, to the point that I feel the need to remind myself that we are indeed still in Vietnam.
It’s probably not really surprising, seeing as the church and post office are so close to each other, as well as the fact that they’re both probably in the top five ‘tourist attractions’ of Saigon.
Past Book Street, which is definitely not in the top five, and then onto the post office, which, a bit like St Joseph’s in Hanoi, I find very difficult not to photograph, whenever I see it.
The post office.
Around to the front of Notre Dame, and, as expected, it’s cloaked in scaffolding.
And in so much of it, I start to wonder if it would actually be possible to find another length of scaffolding, anywhere in Vietnam, at this very point in time.
I doubt I have ever seen so much in any one place.
Notre Dame Cathedral. In there somewhere…..
We walk the block that goes around the back of the post office, still finding ridiculous numbers of tourists.
Past the Intercontinental hotel, and then a Starbucks, which, along with all the tourists, just reminds me how little appeal this area, and areas like it, hold for me.
We cut down Book Street, and then make our way behind Notre Dame. Down the road that runs through April 30 Park; at least it’s a little cooler; and then onto the Reunification Palace.
Buses and tourists everywhere, with that observation reminding me that we are still yet to actually visit the place.
We really should, at some point, and we could perhaps do it now, but my level of desire is low, and I’ve reached a point where I no longer want to mingle with other people who either look like us, or choose to travel in large groups on big buses.
Down the road that runs across the front of the palace in the direction of Nguyen Dinh Chieu, stopping briefly to watch a guy tending to the most beautiful looking pig on a spit, set up on the footpath out the front of a restaurant.
Ohhhh, the aroma……
Onto Nguyen Dinh Chieu, and finding a large-ish café / restaurant set up over on the right, mostly under rather temporary looking awnings, the decision is made that the day’s second cà phê sữa đá is indeed a very good idea.
We head over, seat found amongst an already fairly crowded ‘restaurant’, and we quickly have our coffees (22 000 Dong), along with the obligatory trà đá’s.
The coffees are good, and so to is the opportunity to sit down. I’m absolutely knackered, and my muscles, mainly in my legs, are aching.
The few steps I’d thought, or hoped, that I’d taken forward over the last few days, have well and truly stopped happening today. In fact, right now, it feels like we may have even gone in the opposite direction.
It’s frustrating, but then again, maybe it’s just a combination of the amount of walking we’ve done, and of course in this heat, while still battling the last remaining remnants of this thing?
I don’t know; maybe I’m pushing too hard.
The recuperation, and the savouring, begins, but is interrupted slightly by a noise overhead.
It’s rain, and in a matter of seconds, it becomes very heavy rain. They say timing is everything, and if that’s the case, we’ve absolutely nailed it.
We sit and enjoy nature’s show, while watching the locals out on the road just simply dealing with it all, and getting on with life.
The rain continues, the drinking of our coffees is slowed, and it’s not long at all before numerous, and deep, puddles form in, and surrounding, our café.
I love it, and I love how no one really cares.
The rain keeps doing its thing, which is fortuitous, as it lessens the guilt of my desire to simply sit and rest.
Eventually it eases, with it now being little more than drizzle, so the bill is fixed up with a much appreciative cảm ơn given for their hospitality and shelter, and we head out to make our way back to the Le Blanc.
Not surprisingly, there’s water everywhere, and it’s not long before Lisa manages to find a loose paver, that not only sends water up her leg, but also mine.
Oh well, you can only get so wet….
Down past the burning Buddha, and back to the hotel around 12.30pm.
Onto the bed; I just need to lie down for a few minutes; which helps, but only until the toilet is once again required.
Aaaargh…..
Feeling, at least a little, better, we head out a bit after 1.00pm, to do something not just about lunch, but also about ticking off one of the things on our before we leave, ‘to do’ list.
Over to, and then down, Diagonal Street, to our bún bò Huế guy. He’s very happy to see us, and we’re quickly seated enjoying what he does so well.
It’s good, as it always is, and I love the little connection and relationship we have with him. He’s a nice guy, and from the looks of it, judging by the steady stream of Grab Food guys who pull up out the front, his food certainly seems to be well regarded in the community.
Lunch, along with some incredibly refreshing trà đá, had, and the bill of100 000 Dong fixed up.
Off to the Le Blanc to attempt a proper rest and recovery session, which, a little surprisingly, does actually result in at least some sleep. Certainly not a lot, but yeah, some.
Back out a bit after 3.00pm, with my overthinking brain feeling the need to calculate, and let me know, that we are now down to less than 48 hours to go.
Wonderful…..
Over to see about doing something about a cold drink, but upon reaching Nga’s, only her husband is found, dutifully sweeping up around where her cart usually is.
Slightly dejected, we head up towards Dien Bien Phu, then make our way down to the market, which, while there’s still a few about, is nowhere near the vibrancy of early morning, with the majority of the fresh food related stall holders long gone.
The remaining ones are mostly clothing and everyday household items related, and as we head down, one looks over and acknowledges us.
It takes a second to realise, but it’s actually one of the women that we’ve seen the last two days, outside Nga’s. She gives us a huge smile as we go past, while also trying, in a joking way, to convince us to come in and buy something.
It was funny, and I loved that she not only recognised us, but also took the time to interact.
Back across to the Le Blanc, and then off into ‘our’ hems, which still don’t actually really feel like ‘our’ hems.
It’s something that still embarrasses me somewhat, after us not realising exactly where we were, nor where the Le Blanc was actually situated, when we first arrived and began exploring this area last year.
‘Our’ hems are different to our normal hems, that actually aren’t, appearing to be a little more residential, with less commercial activity.
But still good, and more than enjoyable to walk, with lots of friendly acknowledgements when we come across the locals.
We make our way through the rabbit warren they are, still with no luck in finding a drink option, before eventually returning to the main road that the burning Buddha is on.
And at the end of that hem, success, with a local lady found doing various fruit juices.
Two of the passionfruit variety (15 000 Dong each) are promptly ordered, and we head off with drinks in hand, before ending up at the burning Buddha monument.
Fortunately, somewhere to sit is found, and my aching muscles are given an opportunity to recover.
It’s all rather hard yards at the moment, and there is a certain amount of concern as to where this is heading.
Drinks savoured, the never ending traffic watched, and with legs somewhat recovered, at least temporarily, we make our way back to the Le Blanc to drop Lisa off.
Up to Dien Bien Phu, and as I make my way across the road, they never cease to amaze me, as they begin organising a table for me out on the footpath.
A beer quickly arrives, and I’m back doing the whole watching thing, that I’ve loved since day one.
The most important delivery guy in the world soon turns up, and his vehicle is emptied of crates of full beer bottles, and then filled with crates of empty ones.
The cycle of life…..
The guy who appears to be the second in charge, helps a little old lady across the road. I’ve seen that happen a few times, and every time I do, it just tugs at my heart.
Partly because of the actual kind gesture, but also because I feel so much for the elderly, who are so intimidated by the traffic they now find themselves surrounded by.
More sitting, another beer or two, and all of a sudden my shoe cleaning guy appears. He makes a beeline for me, and just like yesterday, sticks his hand out to shake mine.
Just another one of those little interactions, and one of those seemingly insignificant moments, that just mean the world to me.
It’s also a reminder that I need to wear my Keens tomorrow, in anticipation of having them cleaned, before our journey home.
That reminder, however, simply serves as a reminder of what is to come…..
A local guy sits next to me, and there’s something about him that makes me feel a little uneasy.
I’m far from worried, but with the staff also looking a little wary, it is making me think.
A brief conversation, driven by my fellow customer, between him and a couple of the staff is had, with that conversation feeling like it was very much about me.
I obviously have no idea what it’s about, but it feels like he has a problem with me for some reason.
The staff, who still appear to be a little on edge, seem to be looking out for me, which is both reassuring, but also slightly concerning, seeing as they feel the need to ‘protect’ me.
It’s weird, and again, I’m certainly not scared, but my senses are a little more heightened.
One more beer, and as I’m finishing it, my ‘mate’, who seems far more relaxed than he was, reaches across to ‘cheers’ me.
I reciprocate, with a smile, and he then decides he now wants to chat with me directly, rather than with the staff.
His whole demeanor has changed, and now appears far more friendly, but with his desire for the conversation to be in Vietnamese, well, that’s just not going to happen.
Bill fixed up, and I head back down to my take away guy. He sees me coming, and as I approach, I hear him say ‘sáu’ (six), to his wife.
I nod with a smile, and repeat the word ‘sáu’.
He laughs, and sets about retrieving them.
He’s a funny guy, and I love our little relationship.
Down to Diagonal Street, a wave and a smile to our bún bò Huế guy, who just happens to be looking after my barber; I just love this community; and then back to the LeBlanc for a much needed shower.
Out for dinner, and the plan is to mix it up again, by looking for a new place.
Even though we’ve been over to the hems on the other side Nguyen Dinh Chieu, and found nothing much in the way of dinner, I’m convinced to try again.
It’s pretty much a fail, with the only real possibility found, being a place doing bún bò Huế.
While I have always struggled, and continue to do so, when it comes to understanding the differences of the various noodle soup dishes; you know, eat to live, not live to eat; the fact that the name of the dish indicates a double up from lunch, kind of puts a dampener on my desire.
Back from whence we came, and back into ‘our’ hems. The same old walk reveals the same old result, which is essentially the seafood hem, which of course, travelling with the seafood averse one, is never going to happen.
We could just go back to our usual favourite, but the planning for tomorrow night is well entrenched in the back of my mind.
But not too far back. Unfortunately……
A lightbulb moment, of sorts, hits me, when I think of the phở place I’ve spent a number of hours looking across at, while sitting at my beer place.
They always seem reasonably busy, I’ve watched the guy walk his kids across the road when they come home from school, and with it being directly opposite my beer place, I’m struggling to come up with a reason why we shouldn’t try them.
In fact, I’m a little surprised that I haven’t considered it before now.
We head up, hoping that first of all they’re still open, and that second, they have at least a couple of people already partaking.
Up to Dien Bien Phu, around the corner, and the answer to both is, yes, although there’s not that many in there. But that might be because it’s now 7.30pm.
Decision made, we head in, and after an initial reaction of slight nervousness, everyone is happy, and we quickly have a couple of bowls of phở bò in front of us.
It’s good, but a touch tame in the flavour department, which is quickly rectified with the adding of a little chilli.
Phở, that went from good to very good, all done, and now with an attitude that we will definitely return, the bill of 70 000 Dong (total) is fixed up, and we make the long walk across the road to do what we do.
Seat taken outside, and we’re back.
The rubbish and recycling guys over the road, the occasional appearance of a rat or two, essentially doing the same as the rubbish guys, but just on a smaller scale.
Our rice cracker lady turns up, and after declining last night due to still having leftovers, another bag of three is purchased for 20 000 Dong.
A lotto ticket seller makes an appearance, and while they mostly tend to ignore foreigners, it’s not difficult to get involved should you wish to.
I do, and buy two (20 000 Dong), returning one to her to do as she pleases, while keeping one as a souvenir.
The staff, again, just look after us so well, in particular, the young Cambodian girl who has taken to calling us Aunt and Uncle.
While we are both an ‘Aunt’ and an ‘Uncle’ back home, I’ve never been enamoured with the title, much preferring to be simply known by my name.
And now, being given that title here, my typical western reaction is to be a little hurt, as I know that’s their way of indicating that they know that we’re older than them.
Of course, I know that I am, but I don’t really want to be reminded of that, and anyway, I don’t really feel as old as I am.
Well, apart from when I’m trying to get out of bed, getting up from a low chair, or bending over to pick something up…..
But, I quickly remind myself that I’m not currently in a western country, and as such, I need to stop thinking like one.
Her use of Aunt and Uncle is actually a term of respect, and it’s what they do in everyday life to show that respect, so really, I’m the one who should be altering my own silly belief, or mindset, and just be honoured that she’s engaging with us like she is.
And I am honoured; it means a lot; and from now on, a promise is made to ensure that this particular custom is well and truly embraced.
I return to my beer, as well as the world in front of me, and while I’m well aware of the inevitable that is fast approaching, I’m also very pleased that we still have one more night.
Especially after our little Aunt and Uncle thing.
Final beer had, bill dealt with, and Google Translate is used to let them know that tomorrow night is the final one. They understand, and acknowledge in a way that indicates that they may even miss our daily comings together.
Back down to the Le Blanc, with a slight detour to the convenience store at the, pretty much next door, service station, which, as it turns out, isn’t overly convenient.
The intrepid one has a desire for an ice cream, and while she wastes time deciding, I check beer prices, purely for the purpose of research.
That results in the discovery that every beer I buy from my local guy up the road, actually saves me 3000 Dong, compared to buying here.
That then leads to the realisation that I will need to purchase, and then drink, six of his beers, in order to be able to afford Lisa’s 18 000 Dong ice cream.
I think that’s how it works….
Back ‘home’, stairs traversed, and on the bed a bit before 9.30pm, for the usual.
Now down to one to go, which isn’t ideal, but at least there still is one to go.
And health wise, I’m better than I was earlier. Which is good.
Hopefully it continues in the right direction tomorrow.
Cheers,
Scott
seriouslynot 