Friday 22 september – Can Tho
Well, the night was uneventful. Those cheap little Imodium tablets go alright.
It’s now 7.45am, and apart from a severe case of lethargy, I feel okay.
But there’s not a lot of desire to get up, so a bit of lazing ensues, along with that thinking that I love so much.
Twenty four nights down, six to go. In fact, one week today, we’ll be back home.
Yep, I annoy myself.
Outside at 8.30am, the sun is out, it’s already hot, and we head down for breakfast of eggs on toast, and iced passionfruit juice.
The food, of course, is good, and we sit and just take it all in. I love being here; the outlook, the peacefulness, the people of the Mekong. All of it.
The day is contemplated, and even though it’s already hot, it’s likely to only get hotter, so there’s no better time for a bike ride than now.
Back to the room to get sorted, including the application of sunscreen, that will no doubt irritate my eyes, as the absolute guaranteed sweat, becomes a thing.
The grounds of Green Village.
Back outside, bikes selected, tyres pumped up, that sweat begins.
Finally on our way by 10.30am, and this time we turn left at the top of the driveway, with the loose plan of making our way to the small village, not too far away.
We follow the canal, and straight away it’s a feeling of serenity. The quietness, along with the lushness and greenness of the foliage, as well as the smiles and ‘hellos’ from the locals.
Then, of course, there’s the evidence of Vietnam’s rubbish issue.
It’s still there, and while I’d obviously prefer it wasn’t the problem that it is, it doesn’t impact my love for the countryside of the Mekong Delta.
The kids are on their way home from school for lunch, mostly on two wheels, with a number now sporting the electric variety.
It’s a noticeable change.
But regardless of their mode of transport, it’s their interest when they see a couple of western tourists, and their eagerness to interact.
The smiles, waving, and hellos, increase significantly, and it’s almost a fulltime job returning the acknowledgements.
But it’s a ‘job’ I love, and I’m honoured that they feel so inclined to take the time.
Again, Mekong people. And Mekong kids.
We reach the village, the market still going, but certainly quietening down, and we ride the length of it.
Looking for a drink, but more waiting for something to jump out, we’re unsuccessful in one finding us.
We do a U-turn at the end, and ride back through the market, before turning off to the right, which is the road that had the rundown carnival / amusement park on it, last year.
It’s gone, which is probably not surprising, with the area now taken up with new looking shops and businesses.
We ride on, and as we go, we pass a nước mía đá cart over on the left. The drink has found us, so we double back, and park our bikes out the front beside the road.
The lady who runs it, who is getting on in years and uses a walking stick to get around, is rather surprised to see us, but quickly motions us to a nearby table.
Two nước mía đá’s ordered, and she sets about the crushing of the cane.
They’re delivered a couple of minutes later, and the realisation is instantly made that we obviously ordered the ‘large’ size.
And when I say large, I mean huge. More bucket like than cup like, but absolutely no complaints, especially when we taste the contents.
Nước mía đá is pretty much always good, but sometimes it’s just that little bit gooder than normal.
And this one is one of those, with it being really good!
We sit and savour, while enjoying the opportunity to cool down a little, and eventually get through our ‘bucket’.
Our, very large, nước mía đá’s!
Bill fixed up, for the absolutely ridiculous price of 10 000 Dong each, and we give our lady a much appreciated cảm ơn, with the view that there is a very good chance that we will be back again, before our Green Village time is up.
We continue on in the direction that we were going prior to our pitstop, and then veer off along a path on the right. It looks familiar, because it is. It’s actually where the boat left from, to take us to Cai Rang floating market, in both 2014 and 2017, when Green Village was in its original location.
It also looks familiar as we actually rode along here last year, but coming from the opposite direction, I just never realised.
We follow the path, sweat once again building, despite often being in shade, and we manage to find our way back to the village.
With shirts now as wet as they’re going to get, we push on, heading across the canal and turning right.
Typical sights on the canals of the Mekong.
Along the path that we partly rode last year, which is also the path that I rode the length of in 2019.
Houses on the left, canal on the right, and Lisa in the front, spending far too much time looking down the drop off to the water, rather than concentrating on the path itself.
That also takes me back to 2019, and images of grazed legs and mud, along with tear filled eyes.
It’s a memory that I’d prefer not to re-live, so rather than watch her potentially worry herself into such a predicament, I decide to take the lead, so that I can no longer see her.
Yep, forever the caring and sympathetic one…..
On we go, the occasional murmurings and mutterings heard from behind, which are acknowledged with less occasional looks back, to confirm that she’s still where she should be.
The path eventually runs out, and we veer off into an area that looks a bit like a residential estate in the making.
But, from memory, it kind of looked like that four years ago, too.
It’s open, it’s rather boring, with nothing of interest to look at, and it’s hot, as we have now lost any shade cover that we had earlier
We head down the main-ish road of the estate, and eventually reach the actual main, main road, which is the point I reached the last time I came this far.
I’m struggling to believe it was four years ago; feels like no more than a year; that I was last here, sitting on my bike, staring at the copious amounts of traffic crossing in front of me, and too scared to even contemplate the thought of heading across.
Seriously, where has the time gone?
And now, here I find myself once again, contemplating this ‘scary’ road in front of me. Google says there’s an ATM over the other side, and with my stubbornness the other night interfering with my desire to obtain more cash, I really could do with an ATM.
Deep breath taken, traffic lights watched for a colour that makes a crossing conducive, and the leap of faith is undertaken.
While the lights appear to give plenty of time to cross, it’s amazing how quickly they tick down, when you’re riding a gearless bike across four lanes, with a rather wide and significant median strip in the middle.
More pressure is applied to each peddle, and the navigation is completed, just, without incident.
A look at Google Maps, comparison made with what I can see, and the apparent nearby ATM is not where Google indicates it is.
We head down the main road, and then turn off right to go around the block. The ATM remains elusive.
We get back to the road that brought us across the main road, and as I begin thinking bad things about Google, Lisa points out the Agribank ATM over the road, and just down a bit.
It doesn’t happen very often, but it is nice when she becomes useful.
We head over, and because money is my job, I head in to what turns out to be an airconditioned ATM cubicle.
It’s nice, and results in me instantly slowing down the whole money withdrawal transaction, while Lisa sweats it out looking after the bikes.
Card inserted, buttons perused slower than usual, maximum withdrawal allowed of 3 million Dong selected, 22 000 Dong ATM fee accepted, and I soon have more money than I did.
But not really.
I reluctantly, and slowly, extricate myself from the cubicle, and the heat once again washes over me.
But not for long, as I realise I’ve left my sunglasses on the top of the ATM.
Damn bad luck having to return to the air conditioner….
Time to head back, and time to tackle that road again, we head down to pluck up the courage.
But there’s no time to find that courage, as when we reach the intersection, we actually have a green light facing us.
But only eleven seconds worth, which, on these bikes, is unlikely to be enough for the four lanes and the rather wide median strip.
Caution, however, is thrown to the wind, and we begin the crossing.
And yep, by the time we reach the second set of lanes, our green light is no more.
We stop, now stuck, rather vulnerably, in the middle of the road. Traffic whizzes by, but then a gap opens up, and the desire to complete the crossing, regardless of light colour, becomes too great to resist.
We make it, safely, and then a bit further up we find a large convenience store, which would no doubt help solve yesterday’s failed attempt at purchasing soap.
I head in, leaving Lisa to look after the bikes, and once again, I’m instantly hit with the results that only an air conditioner can provide.
The soap is found, and even though I know exactly which one I want, the rest of the available options are thoroughly perused.
With the quality of this air conditioning, there is absolutely no need to rush.
Soap selected (14 000 Dong), and with toothpaste, of which we are starting to run low on, found nearby, the slow and methodical perusing of it, also entails.
This air conditioning is exceptional!
Decision made on the Colgate brand one (29 000 Dong), and then as I slowly head over towards the counter, I notice cans of Strongbow apple cider (20 000 Dong).
With a touch of guilt, almost being felt, at having left Lisa out in the heat with the bikes, I grab two, to both reward her, as well as make me feel better, should that guilty feeling actually become a thing.
All set, and my slow journey to the counter to pay continues.
After checking the price of various nearby beers.
I tell you, this air conditioning…..
Purchases eventually paid for, an appreciative cảm ơn given to the two young staff, which then results in a round of giggling. I think it’s probably fair to say that they wouldn’t see too many around these parts who look like me.
Back outside, Lisa is where I left her, and as the heat washes over me, I prove to her what a caring and thoughtful husband I am, by showing her the Strongbow cans.
She’s impressed, as she should be, while I make no mention of the convenience store’s excellent air conditioner.
Back on the bikes, and then back to the canals, where the heat is slightly less of a thing. But not much.
Into the village, and being a little after 12.30pm, lunch becomes our target. Unfortunately, the village doesn’t reveal a lunch option, so we head back towards Green Village, turning off at the main road, with the view of checking out last year’s lunch place.
Onto the main road, along with of course the associated heat, and we eventually reach the other nearby village.
Disappointingly, our lunch place appears to be no more, but we do find another place a few doors down, doing cơm tấm (broken rice) with grilled chicken.
This will do, so bikes are parked on the side of the road, and we’re welcomed in by the very friendly local woman, who is just a little surprised to see us.
Two of what ever it is that they do are ordered, and we quickly have our cơm tấm and chicken, along with cucumber and tomato, as well as a bowl of soup, with the obligatory offal in it.
Lisa starts by trying to cut up her chicken, using a chopstick and the soup spoon, which goes as well as you’d think it would.
Grains of rice begin to be flung around the table, while the chicken remains in one piece.
The woman notices Lisa’s struggles, and the resultant mess, and heads across with a pair of scissors.
Scissors are expertly waved, and in no time at all, and with far less effort than Lisa was exerting, she now has a pile of bite sized chicken pieces in front of her, with everyone concerned now far happier.
It’s all really good, with the exception of the offal, of which I of course end up with two pieces, thanks again to Lisa.
Lunch! Before it was cut up….
Lunch done, ridiculously cheap bill of 50 000 Dong, in total, is paid, and we head back to Green Village around 1.30pm, for a rest and recovery session.
I’m knackered, and along with the drained feeling from the heat, I’m also a little achy, which is concerning.
Doze for an hour, before becoming aware of a rather strong desire for a toilet, which is far from pleasant.
It’s a sign that all is not well, and while it’s nowhere near as bad as 2016, it does make me think back to that time.
A bit more dozing, and then back outside around 3.30pm to walk the grounds, as well as watch the workers who are working on one of the huts.
Well, it was a hut, as it has now been completely demolished, with the site it sat on now being prepared for the new and improved structure, that will soon rise from it.
Down to the pool, a bit of a chat with a couple from Sydney, before retreating to the room as the big black clouds that have rolled in, begin doing their thing.
A few notes, a couple of beers, all while just sitting back and enjoying one very impressive thunderstorm, with it lasting a good 90 minutes.
The view from our balcony. Through the rain.
Storm over, shower had, and it’s up to dinner just after 6.00pm. Tonight it’s hotpot, with chicken and vegetables, along with marinated pork and rice, and then dessert of waffle type cones.
It’s all really good, but again, just so much of it, and while we gave it a good nudge, we’re forced to admit defeat, and leave some of it behind.
No sign of Thy tonight, but we do spend a little time talking to one of the young housekeepers, who we’ve not met before. She’s incredibly friendly, and more than a little surprised, when she learns that it’s our fifth time at Green Village.
It is, I guess, a lot of times, when you stop and think about it, but to me it just confirms what this place means to us.
Well, maybe not so much the place itself, although I do absolutely love the whole set up, but more the people.
But not just Thy, and her husband Hiep, but all the people who both work here, and have worked here, over the years. Friendlier, and more generous, people you will not find.
And that was something that we became instantly aware of, on one of our just two nights, way back in 2014, when, while on a night tour of Can Tho, the boy came down with some sort of food or gastro bug.
The response to that issue was above and beyond, and it’s something that I will never forget, something that I will always appreciate, and something that has forged a friendship that will be there for a very long time.
Dinner, and contemplation, done, we head back to the room just before 8.00pm.
A couple of beers and a bit of Tripadvisoring on the bed, and then an early night is called a touch after 10.00pm.
Health wise, I’m alright, but certainly not perfect.
Hopefully it’s an uneventful night, and hopefully things are better tomorrow.
Or, at least, not worse…..
Cheers,
Scott
seriouslynot 