Tuesday 19 September – Hanoi
Eyes open, and I try and guess the time by how much noise I can hear.
My suspicion is that it’s early, which is what I really want it to be, seeing as I don’t really want to get up yet.
Phone is looked at. It’s 7.30am.
Good, we don’t have to do this yet, and anyway, I’m not actually sure I could, even if I wanted to.
I feel ordinary, and this thing has become a head cold, accompanied with an overwhelming dose of lethargy.
Sleep is attempted again, but it doesn’t really work, and a bit after 8.30am, I finally give in.
Downstairs around 9.15am, and once again, it’s the usual of fruit and cà phê sữa đá.
As usual, it’s good, but I’m not really enjoying it. Everything just feels like such a struggle.
Breakfast done, a bit of a chat with David, and then back up to the room to get sorted for, what will likely be, a day of very little.
First snag is hit when we find the cleaners already in our room, so we head back downstairs to let them finish.
Lisa’s phone rings, it’s the girl back in Melbourne, so she looks after the parenting stuff, while I continue my chat with David.
‘Parenting’ done, David’s ear bashed enough, we head out around 10.15am to, well, just do something.
Out of the Emerald, and up the lane off Hang Manh Street. The little local market is on, and as markets usually are, it’s colourful, vibrant and busy.
Colours of a market.
Up the end, we turn right, and a bit further on I’m reminded that I need a haircut, when I see a street barber doing his thing on the footpath.
With him also having one waiting, I have very little desire to also sit and wait, so we continue our walk to wherever it is that we’re going.
We reach Bat Dan, and my beer place, and then duck down the road that runs behind it.
The realisation then hits that this head cold is making my sense of smell hypersensitive. Food, exhaust fumes, sewer type smells; they’re overpowering, and it’s not making things any easier.
Round the block, and back up to Hang Dieu, and once again the street barber is found. He’s still busy, so we walk on by, and head back to the Emerald for a quick toilet stop.
I feel a bit lost. I don’t know what to do. I just feel like I need to achieve something.
Relief attained, we head back outside, and up through the market again.
Onto Hang Dieu, and then to the barber, and his only customer is the one he’s currently shearing.
He sees my interest, and motions for me to take a seat, while Lisa makes use of the café next door, and orders a cà phê sữa đá.
I sit and wait patiently, although probably not as patiently as I think I do, and finally after 15 minutes, it’s my turn.
Waiting…..
Seat taken, I show him a photo on my phone from a few weeks ago, and he nods that he understands.
He then begins punching something into his phone, before showing me the result.
It’s the price, with the amount being 150 000 Dong.
I wasn’t expecting that, and I know it’s way over the odds of what it should be.
A decision needs to be made; do I just get up and walk, do I haggle, or do I just accept it?
I’d like to walk, but I’ve already wasted so much time waiting. I could haggle, but I can’t be bothered, and anyway, I really don’t want to make a scene or make it awkward, especially when he’s going to be waving sharp pointy things around my head.
The only other option is to accept it, which I really don’t want to do, but I’ve reached a point where I’ve had enough, and I just want my hair cut.
I meekly give in, and nod in acknowledgement.
That’s alright, but I’m now annoyed at both myself and him.
Me, because I rolled over, and him because he’s taking advantage. It’s not really the money, it’s more the opportunistic behaviour. Especially up here, which ain’t really tourist central.
He begins, but the first couple of passes aren’t as short as I’d like. And if I’m paying what I’m paying, then I’d like this haircut to last as long as I can.
With hand and finger movements, I ask him to cut it shorter.
He changes the comb, makes another pass, and then says, “Yes?”
I nod. Although I’m not sure what he was going to do had I said it was too short….
Ten minutes later, he’s done. It is a little shorter than it usually is, but I’m okay with that.
But the end result really does nothing to impact my level of annoyance.
Enough money handed over for three haircuts, but only one received, and then I head over to sit with Lisa, while she finishes her cà phê sữa đá.
We sit there, Lisa enjoying her coffee, and me now stewing on something that I know, because it’s me, I’m going to have trouble letting go of any time soon.
The barber is now working on his next customer, and every so often he glances over in my direction, smiling, and wanting to engage.
I pretend I don’t notice his attempts, and either look away, or look past him. It’s too late for niceties.
Four years ago, over near St Joseph’s, I paid 40 000 Dong on the street, rounding it up to 50 000 Dong. Last year, in Saigon, I paid 100 000 Dong, but that was in an actual ‘barber shop’.
Again, it’s not about the money. If he wants it that bad, he can have it. But he’s now cut my hair for the one and only time.
And yes, I would have definitely returned to find him next year, like I did a couple of days ago, when I went looking to see if my 2019 guy was still in the lanes around St Joseph’s.
Oh well….
Lisa’s coffee done, my stewing on something I should let go of continuing, and we head off in the direction of Dong Xuan market, to apparently, deal with the hand held fans we, or maybe more just I, failed to deal with the other day.
My interest level in that is next to zero, and I’m now fast losing interest in every aspect of the day. Yes, annoyed, but also feeling crap, which is helping to contribute to my level of annoyance.
I have a headache, and my head feels all stuffed up; sinus-y like; but why is that all these smells are so overpowering???
We come across another bia hoi place; which almost helps my mood; then find Numberplate Street, before then reaching a street full of cheap plastic display and decoration type items, that are all the rage at the moment for the mid-Autumn festival.
It’s all very ‘pretty’ and colourful, but all I can see is a whole heap of stuff that will soon end up in landfill.
Aaaargh, I’m just not in the mood…. And that is now also annoying me.
All very colourful.
And the lollies, too!
We eventually find a run of the mill souvenir type place, so head in to start researching prices.
Medium fans, apparently, are 40 000 Dong, while small are 30 000 Dong.
“How much for six medium?”, is the question asked.
He thinks for a moment, and then says, “230 000 Dong!”, followed by, “I give discount!”
Yes, yes you did, I think, as I roll my eyes and grit my teeth, without actually outwardly showing either response.
“We’ll think about it”, I say, to which he says he’ll ring his wife.
He does, and the 230 000 Dong becomes 220 000 Dong.
I repeat my ‘We’ll think about it’, and make to move off, waiting to see if he’ll let us leave.
He lets us leave.
Oh well, we now have a rough idea.
Into Package and Cardboard Box Street, and then we find our way into Dong Xuan.
Over to the souvenir part, and we find a young girl who appears keen to do business.
The question is asked, and medium fans are 25 000 Dong, while small are 20 000 Dong.
“Okay, how much for six?”
“120 000 Dong”, is the reply.
Right!, now we’re getting somewhere!
The trigger is pulled, and the deal done, with the end result being six medium ones purchased for 120 000 Dong, and two small ones for 36 000 Dong.
The young girl, who was lovely, is happy, Lisa is happy, and I’m just happy that the whole ‘shopping’ thing is now out of the way.
Kind of recouped our money, but not really, and I’m still struggling to let go of my annoyance.
Out of Dong Xuan, and into the streets of the Old Quarter. Again, no plans, just walking.
Past the Old Quarter Gate, down around Ma May and Beer Corner, then back to the big round about.
The sights you see….
Getting close to 1.00pm, we probably need to do something about lunch, so we make our way up to Hang Trong, and then around the corner to St Joseph’s, and then ultimately, Bánh My Mama’s.
She’s busy, with something like eight or nine hanging around, and with no chance of wanting to make it ten or eleven, we walk on.
Through the lanes near the church, and then out near the hospital, hoping that something, food wise, will jump out at me and call my name.
It doesn’t, and right now, I have absolutely no desire to eat anything else other than a simple bánh mì.
It’s the smells, they’re killing me….
We continue on past the hospital, and the realisation hits, or at least I think it does, that this a rather large, and not overly interesting, block.
My realisation, unfortunately, is in fact correct, and it seems to take forever to get back to St Joseph’s.
On to Bánh My Mama’s, and the good news is that our extended walk has resulted in a far smaller group waiting for their lunch.
We take a seat in the laneway, and our girl gives us an acknowledging smile. No actual ordering is required; she knows exactly what we want; and a few minutes later, we have our pork skewer bánh mì’s (40 000 Dong).
As they always are, they’re good, but I’m just not capable of enjoying food at the moment.
Lunch done, we head back to the Emerald. It’s hot. It’s humid. I’m tired. And I hurt.
Finally into the airconditioned comfort, and Jenny and Kate are at the desk.
I show them the result of this morning’s exercise, and Jenny asks where the deed was done, and how much?
I tell her, having a fair idea of where this is going to go.
And yep, she’s horrified at the price.
“Yes, I know”, I reply.
“You could have gone to a salon for that!”, she says
“I suspected that”, I respond.
“They would have washed your hair and your face, for that amount of money”, she continues.
“Yes, I’m sure all of those things may have been possible”, I say meekly.
I’m annoyed, but certainly not at Jenny, and probably now not even the barber. I’m annoyed at myself. Annoyed that I didn’t get up and walk away. And annoyed that I’m still annoyed.
But like my sense of smell, everything just feels so magnified today.
Lesson in all things hairdresser and barbery had, we head upstairs around 1.45pm for a much needed rest and recovery session.
It results in little more than dozing, with maybe no more than 5 minutes of actual sleep.
I lay there a bit longer, and while I don’t really want to get up, I’m now sick of just laying here.
My phone, which is sitting on the bedside table, is checked; it’s 2.30pm. I go to put it down, but then drop it on the floor in the process.
I reach down to pick it up, and bump my head on the bedside table.
I’m just loving this day…..
The rest and recovery session now well and truly over, and a few notes are written to ensure I never forget a day, that I’m unlikely to forget, regardless of whether I write notes.
3.30pm arrives, and with the catch up we organised with Quan the other day being at 6.00pm, I make a move up to Bat Dan a little earlier than usual.
The thought, however, crosses my mind that perhaps having a few beers is not such a great idea, considering how I’ve felt today.
But I come to the conclusion that not having a beer today hasn’t helped me one little bit, so who knows, maybe that’s been my problem.
Outside and over to Stainless Steel Street, then up Bat Dan. It’s rather quiet, but that’s okay.
My drinking partner woman, who isn’t, because we don’t actually drink ‘together’, arrives at the same time, and we exchange pleasantries and have a short chat.
I’ve loved our little interactions, and I’m going to miss her, and I suspect she feels the same.
She has, however, given me a ‘goodbye’ to do tomorrow.
Her ‘real’ drinking partner, who looks a little like a Vietnamese version of Willie Nelson, then turns up, and as he walks across the road, and as has the last few days, gives me an acknowledging smile and a hello.
Again, while I love the interaction, as small and insignificant as it is, it’s more the fact that I’m noticed, when I think of myself as a pretty unnoticeable sort of person.
A few beers, and as usual, the world is watched. This time perhaps a little more so, as I can well and truly see the end to our Hanoi time.
My thing.
So many familiar faces; pyjama guy, the three guys who walk up the street the same time each day, pushing the trolley with their rubbish bin on it, and then the Hạt Dẻ guy.
He intrigues me for some reason, and I’d love to know his story.
It all unfolds in front of me, and while I feel like a spectator, it occurs to me that, with these little interactions that occasionally occur, maybe I too am a part of this whole thing.
Albeit, for the short time I get to spend here.
The beers are actually going down okay, but I’m reminded that all is not totally rosy in terms of health, when my itchy and running nose causes a short bout of sneezing.
There is some guilt there, with the way that my brain has been altered due to the whole Covid thing, which I can just add to the things that have annoyed me today.
One of the older guys who works here; he’s probably mid to late 20’s; walks past me as he goes about his job.
But as he does, he stops, looks at my Hanoi tattoo, actually reaches down and touches it, and then says something.
While he has a little bit of English, the conversation is going to need some help, so Google Translate gets a fair workout.
It turns out that he is of the Mường minority group, and while now living and working here in Hanoi, he was originally from Thanh Hoa.
He tells me a bit about his family, but he’s actually more interested in me, than talking about his life.
Seeing the tattoo was obviously the conversation starter, and I think it intrigues him that a western tourist would think so much of his country, that they would go to the extent of permanently commemorating it.
Regardless, he was just an incredibly friendly and genuine guy, and I was more than a little chuffed that he not only made the effort, but that he also spent so much time, engaging with me.
A few more beers, and then I make a move at 5.30pm, to get ready for our dinner and beer date with Quan.
Back down Bat Dan, and into Stainless Steel Street, and suddenly the world, as well as my own little bubble, seems a much better place than earlier today.
Yes, it might be partly the beer, but it’s also the stuff that tends to happen around it.
And my local mate who just took the time to reach out, has most definitely improved my lot today.
Those little things again, that are from being little at all.
Into the Emerald, and up for a quick shower, which then becomes quicker, when a message from Quan comes through, saying to meet at a place in Bat Su Street.
Google Maps is looked at, and while it’s far from miles away, we ain’t going to be there by 6.00pm.
Message returned confirming all good, along with a note that we’ll likely be a few minutes late.
Shower done, and it’s back outside, making our way up Stainless Steel Street, on to Bat Dan, but then off and on to Bat Su.
Up Bat Su a bit, and over on the left in a pretty local looking bia hoi place, we find Quan. It’s great to see him again, and the place he has chosen has just made it that little bit greater.
We sit and chat, with a fair chunk of that chatting centering on our Food Tour 1 Hanoi experience the other night, that Quan, and Khoi, had arranged for us.
A number of beers had, along with food of sausage, pork and fried rice, and, as it is always is when we get together, it’s just a really fun and enjoyable night.
Not surprisingly, the time absolutely flies by, and all too soon we reach the point where it’s time for one of those ‘goodbyes’, that is much more a ‘see you later’.
We head off, manage to stumble across the street selling all the colourful decorations for the mid-Autumn festival, and of course, Lisa just has to stop and have a look.
Ten minutes of my life I’ll never get back finally up, along with slightly less money in my pocket because Lisa wanted to buy some kitschy bunny ears thing, and we make our way across to Bat Dan.
A couple more beers, a Coke for Lisa, a quick chat with the guy from Thanh Hoa, and an hour of watching the usual sights of the world, before heading off a bit before 9.30pm.
Down Bat Dan, and into Stainless Steel Street, with a quick detour into our convenience store. Our girl is there, and she gives us a big smile as we walk in.
Supplies grabbed, and as I place the beers on the counter, and recalling our lesson last night, I count them out slowly, in Vietnamese.
Một……, hai……, ba….., bốn….., but with significant emphasis on the bốn, with it much more like booooon.
She laughs, and but then still corrects me.
She’s so lovely, and just so much fun, and I’ve loved our little interactions over the journey.
Although, there is a downside to this little relationship, with that being the certain problem of the whole thing now turning into one of those inevitable ‘goodbyes’.
And one that, along with many other ones, are going to arrive en masse tomorrow.
Hmmm…., can’t wait…..
Back to the Emerald, and upstairs for the usual on the bed, along with more of that contemplation that seems to become more of a thing, as your remaining time diminishes.
A day that started out, well, not in a terribly good place, and then continued to make its way downhill.
The head cold, the barber, the shopping expedition, along with the heat of Hanoi, conspiring to make it all rather difficult.
But this afternoon’s session up at Bat Dan began to turn things around, following the chat with the guy from Thanh Hoa.
He went out of his way, off his own bat, to take the time to interact with me, and while it was seemingly a very small thing, it had a far greater impact on me than he’ll ever know.
Then, the catch up, and dinner, with Quan. Again, nothing special, nothing significant, just a catch up.
But, it’s proof you don’t always need to be doing special or significant things, to make a difference.
And then our girl in the convenience store.
A simple transaction, along with an informal, and very short, Vietnamese lesson. But again, it meant heaps.
So, three locals, only one of which I actually know, who somehow managed to drag this western tourist out of his ‘wallowing in self pity’ mindset.
Yep, all just little things.
But sometimes those little things can end up being far more significant, than you ever imagined they could be.
Funny how stuff pans out.
11.00pm, time for sleep.
And time to try and not think about all those ‘goodbyes’ we have to do tomorrow.
Cheers,
Scott
seriouslynot 
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